Dome light fix!

[Zs-ondabrain]

the wide viewing angle LED BA9s are brighter and are only $.98 each. That's only $11 plus shipping for all 11.

Definately paint the insides white, and remove the green lenses.

I am going to do the same but I'm also going to install the Whitye gauge face kit from MSA, it's about $60 plus shipping. That should be the best combo and the gauges don't have to be replaced.

Race ya to the end.... I just need to order the face kit and install them onto each gauge.

Dave.

[MEZZZ]

the wide viewing angle LED BA9s are brighter and are only $.98 each. That's only $11 plus shipping for all 11.

Definately paint the insides white, and remove the green lenses.

I am going to do the same but I'm also going to install the Whitye gauge face kit from MSA, it's about $60 plus shipping. That should be the best combo and the gauges don't have to be replaced.

Race ya to the end.... I just need to order the face kit and install them onto each gauge.

Dave.

Hahaha...I think thats a race you will easily win. I just pulled out the driver seat as I got the foam kit from MSA and upholstery kit. Just wrestled on the back and I am not all that hot on the way it looks. The vinyl doesnt pull that tight around the headrest and the side bolsters, even after heating it up with my wifes blow dryer. I think I will go out tomorrow and see if I can get some foam to fill in the voids or cut open an old pillow or something

Thanks for the tip on the wide angle LED's, I think I will get a set of them in blue for the extra buck a bulb. For that cost, its worth experimenting . I am thinking as long as I have the seats out, it might be easier to crawl around under the dash and get to the gauges. If I could only get the clock to work! I am thinking of going and getting an Autometer clock and seeing if I can gut it and put it in the housing and use the stock faceplate. Escanlon has given me some great advice but I cant get the thing to do much more than jump a bit when I put power to it.

I am also thinking about getting some of that metallic insulation and pulling up the carpet (installed not long ago, albeit shoddily by the P.O.) and putting it down. Post some pics when done and I'll do the same. If you really want to race, lets put a wager on it, if I win, you can come to my place and help work out some of the elec. demons

[ktm]

I converted my entire dash to LEDs. I completely replaced the old lights with 5000 mcd, 40-50 degree blue LEDs. I placed 6 around the tach, 6 around the speedo, and 4 each around the other gauges. The picture makes the first two 2-1/16 gauges look dimmer than they really are.

I also 'repaired' my clock by converting it to a modern, full quartz movement. I need to use a battery, but for the time it works!

[MEZZZ]

I converted my entire dash to LEDs. I completely replaced the old lights with 5000 mcd, 40-50 degree blue LEDs. I placed 6 around the tach, 6 around the speedo, and 4 each around the other gauges. The picture makes the first two 2-1/16 gauges look dimmer than they really are.

I also 'repaired' my clock by converting it to a modern, full quartz movement. I need to use a battery, but for the time it works!

Thanks or the pic...can you fill me in the clock with battery? I would trade having to change a battery from time to time over a non working clock!

[ktm]

I went to a local hobby store and bought a clock kit for $13. I was looking for one that had a slim body and small hands. You want to make sure that the spindle that the clock hands attach to is able to accept the stock Z hands as well as fit the clock face. It's not as bad as it sounds.

I then pulled the clock apart, superglued the quartz body to the back of the faceplate,and had to work on the OE hands a little bit to get them to fit correctly.

I then bought a battery kit from Radioshack (basically a AA receptacle with two wires) and soldered the wires to the battery receptacle on the clock. The new battery receptacle sits on a little ledge adjacent to the glovebox and under the clock.

My car is far from original, but I like the look of the Z gauges. I should mention that I swapped out my 240z gauges for 280z gauges because I wanted a voltmeter instead of an ammeter AND I prefer the more modern font.

[MEZZZ]

Thanks KTM, I will look into that as well. I want a working clock and dont care if it is battery powered as long as it works. There are 2 on Ebay right now that the owners claim are in working order, I might try for one of those too, right now they are $10 and $20...worth a try for that.

[mriz]

I did the gauges taking out the green lenses and using the BA9s white wide angle . They are much brighter but I prefer the blue ones KTM has. Would the festoon bulb 3022-whp2 fit all Z's ?

[TomoHawk]

How do you think it would look to have a completely clear cover on the dome light, instead of the stock translucent white one. You'd definitely let more ofthe light from a stock bulb through that way. Even an LED lamp would be that much brighter.

The only drawback I can think of is that you'd be able to see the guts of the dome light that way.

thxZ

[TomoHawk]

I converted my entire dash to LEDs. I completely replaced the old lights with 5000 mcd, 40-50 degree blue LEDs. I placed 6 around the tach, 6 around the speedo, and 4 each around the other gauges.

Did you make strings of lights and glue them around the ouside of the gauge faces?

What did you do with the turn signal indicators, and the brake warning, high beam light, etc?

Looks great!

thxZ

[ktm]

I wired up pigtails to each LED and then glued the LED to the inside rim of the gauge housing. The tip of the LED sits just below the gauge face. I then fed all the wires through one of the old bulb holes and connected them outside of the housing. It is much easier this way (I did the other way first and it was a royal pain).

I kept the stock incandescent bulbs for the turn signals, brake light, and high beam light. I may convert these in the future, but the incandescent light works just fine in this application.