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1975 datsun 280z 2+2 won't start


newguy22

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ok, my car has new injectors,new fuel regulator, new distributor cap, cleaned out tank, new fuel pump, fuses, and it was made into a push button start before i bought it it did run before then when day i was driving it then i parked it and it would not start it used to flood then it just stopped and now doesn't flood at all

i think it might be the ignition or something electrical

for a short time if i sprayed carborator cleaner into the intake it would run for a few seconds but if i touched the gas it would stall

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2787190 this is a site with some pictures

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Check ur connections at the battery, i had the same problem with my Z and i check everything, i was bafffled. Stupid me looked at the connections and the fusible link wasnt tightend down. Sure enough i cranked her and she fired right up. i could be one hundred percent wrong but just a thought.

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Hrm

Well just for your own piece of mind, I did find the video, and I watched it.

It's a puzzling problem. Have you examined the basics? Have you pulled the plugs recently, or right after you try to start the car... are they hot? do they smell like gas? Is your fuel pump working okay? (a leak in the line anywhere?) Is there spark? Are the wires in the right firing order, etc.

That said, my gut feeling is that this is an electrical issue with the ECU or some wiring something somewhere.

You've gotta remember these cars are 30+ years old, and electrical snafus are extremely frequent... and I would imagine that your wiring harness is pretty badly spliced and botched... especially if someone thought it would be a good idea to install a push-button start. A modification like that certainly doesn't carry any kind of 'cool-factor' ... so it was probably done to bypass another problem....

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When it tried to start with carb cleaner being sprayed into the intake, that would suggest a lack of fuel to the engine. I am not real familiar with the "new" FI Zcars, but there should be a fitting somewhere near the injectors to measure the fuel pressure. That will tell you if the pump is working properly. I would expect you should have about 40 psi. If you do have good pressure then the injectors may not be firing due to some other problem. A noid light can be used to verify the injectors are getting the signal to open from the ECM.

As was suggested earlier take a look at the plugs to see if they are wet with gas. If there is any doubt, throw in a new set of NGKs.

Good Luck

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ok, my car has new injectors,new fuel regulator, new distributor cap, cleaned out tank, new fuel pump, fuses, and it was made into a push button start before i bought it it did run before then when day i was driving it then i parked it and it would not start it used to flood then it just stopped and now doesn't flood at all

i think it might be the ignition or something electrical

for a short time if i sprayed carborator cleaner into the intake it would run for a few seconds but if i touched the gas it would stall

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2787190 this is a site with some pictures

I had a similar(ish) problem. The car got VERY weak spark, would start for a few seconds with starter fluid but then died ...

The diagnosis. Bad wires between the coil and the ignition module. They were ok when you did a standard conductivity test with a test lamp, but the internal resistance of the wires was so degraded it wouldn't hold a proper signal (this is what the mechanic told me after using a scope to test it).

Like others have said, it's a good chance the wires are degraded, butchered, split or other .... post any other information you find out ...

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I was able to get your video to work. MAN, that previous owner made one hell of a mess :stupid:

It's no surprise to me your having such a problem. First thing I would do is perform the test procedures at the E.C.U. in the FSM (I hope you have a Factory Service Manual) if not, get one. It will pay for itself over and over again. Anyway under normal circumstances, the E.C.U.'s rarely fail. What kills them is voltage spikes or such things like disconnecting/reconnecting a battery with a large draw on the system like having the headlights on for example. Anyway seeing your video and the mess this guy made with the wiring leads me to wonder about the condition of the E.C.U. It's possible though that the E.C.U. might have survived so test it first. If it does check out OK then what I would do next is check at the E.C.U. and make sure that it's receiving what is called a Tach Signal. This signal that the E.C.U. receives is a square wave and you'll need a digital tachometer to perform this test. Connect your digital tach to the tach lead input of the E.C.U. and crank the engine. If the tach reads anything other than 0, then that means the E.C.U. is receiving the tach signal. If you get 0 then connect your digital tach to the negative terminal of the coil. If you get a reading there then that means that wire from the coil to the E.C.U. needs to be repaired which like I said earlier wouldn't surprise me seeing that mess the P/O made :rolleyes: Now if you still get 0 at the negative terminal of the coil, then the primary ignition system needs repair.

Best of luck :)

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the pushbutton start is directly connected to the starter and i have done all the basics new spark plugs and wires, fuel pump it did run when i bought it all i had to do was get some gas and a good battery, but it was supposedly garaged but i don't believe that but, anyways thanks for all the help so far and yes i have a fsm i just don't understand it entirely like how to test the ECU

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