i have a two years before i get my permit so i should have plenty of time and thanks for the advice

the only problem is the fsm is for a 76' which i think is a bit different than the 75' but i think it will work

also what part of Minnesota are you from? i was born in mankato and all my relatives live in fairmont,i was just wondering

i have a two years before i get my permit so i should have plenty of time

Yeah I guess you do have time Didn't realize you were that yung

The 1976 FSM will suffice for your 75 280Z. Really no differences between the two.

I'm in Southern Minnesota (Cottage Grove/Woodbury area) Had to put my beautiful Z away for her winters nap about a few weeks ago.

Try this.

1. Pull the black cover off the AFM

2. Turn the ignition to on

3. Inside the AFM rotate flap mechanism

Do you hear the fuel pump turn on?

Also check to see how the bypass starter button was hooked up.

1. Disconnect the solinoid (usually a small yellow wire) starter wire.

2. Turn the ignition to on

3. Press your ignition start button

While pressing the button do you hear the fuel pump turn on?

The AFM has a safety circuit to shut off the fuel pump when the motor stops sucking in air. Durring starting, power is direct to the fuel pump. Once the motor starts, the AFM completes the circuit to the fuel pump.

the fuel pump turned on both times

what are the screws on the AFM for the ones toward the bottom always wondered what they were for

its puzzling when i try to start it it won't start and the plugs will be dry no matter if press the gas or not but i know the gas gets to the injectors and the injectors are brand new but still the plugs don't get wet so i don't know if the connectors are bad or what

I don't think all of the connectors would go bad at once. More likely, you're not getting a signal to the injectors. Could be your ignition relay or the main fuel injection relay both of which are in the circuit that fires the injectors. Oh, and don't mess with those air bleed screws on the AFM especially with the car not running. Even if it was running I wouldn't suggest touching those unless a) you know what you're doing with them and you have some type of meter to measure air/fuel ratio, CO, HC, etc.

were are the relays located and are they expensive? if you could send a pic of the relays that would help

In this thread I have a couple of posts about the fuel injection relay and it's test procedure. The ignition relay is the large one in the bracket in the passenger side footwell.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=235069&highlight=fuel+injection+relay#post235069

the fuel pump turned on both times

Check the fuel pressure between your filter and the engine. You can get a test kit from Harbor Freight Tools. Are you sure the fuel pump installed was for fuel injection? Carburators do not need the high pressure as fuel injection.

The relay Stephen is refering to is under the drivers side on 75's. It is mounted up above the ECU. Kind of a pain to reach. Sounds like the fuel pump side is working.

There should be a ground to the chasis next to the battery. Take it off and clean the connections. On my 75 I added an extra lead to the negative battery cable to. This is the ground point for the ECU.

Check that ground connection first.

I had a problem very similar to this .... It was simply the fuel filter. They can stop allowing fuel through very abruptly. Check out the simple things first. Good luck with that, and keep us posted with results.

True, but he says "i know the gas gets to the injectors" (!?) and a fuel pressure check was suggested back post #7 which would have verified any clogs in the system, a bad fuel filter, or lack of enough pressure to run but that hasn't been done yet so we're still guessing.