Is it generally hard to sell an original series 1 240z?

[newspeed]

Here is the issue. I have a very original series 1 240z that needs restoration and I have listed it on ebay, craigslist, etc but i still have the car. Are they normally hard cars to sell or am i doing something wrong? Dont get me wrong I have had TONS of interest and so many offers thrown my way and even when i agreed and thought we had a deal people are backing out and nobody was ever serious.

I bought the car to have as a restoration project but my life has taken an unexpected turn recently and i must attend to different priorities right now and cant have the car sitting and taking up garage space for an indefinite amount of time.

Any suggestions on how to sell the car to someone who will treat it right and sees the true value in the car?

[newspeed]

btw, here is my craigslist ad: http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/car/476040331.html.

shameless plug:nervous:

[Mike B]

I watched this car when it was for sale on ebay and I was surprised it didn't sell. It looks like there is rust in the rocker panels, but otherwise looks good based on the pictures shown and seems to have most of the original parts. I would think series one cars would be the easiest to sell of any of the model years and I think the price is pretty good, especially for a decent car on the east coast. Carl Beck can give you a much more expert opinion than I can though.

-Mike

[bigoak]

Plug is fine.

Price may be a shade high given what seems to be project with mechanical work to be done and emerging/significant rust issues (rockers, fenders/quarters, etc. but not clear). If you can get good photos of the undercarriage (assuming in decent shape), it would go a long way.

Ebay is a crapshot. May go high, may get nothing. Craigslist and websites such as this one, zcar.com and zdriver.com may get you a better chance of a hit.

The more documentation, the better.

[newspeed]

There is some rust in the rockers and the lip of the rear quarters but don't all other un-restored Datsuns that are not from california? I never considered it a major issue especially when replacement panels can be had for such great prices. Overall the car is very solid and a great candidate for restoration but then again thats just my opinion.

[Arne]

I suspect that your car is priced in an inconvenient range. Not to say that it's not worth $3900, as being a Series 1 with numbers matching engine, all original and with fairly minimal rust makes it an ideal restoration candidate for the right buyer.

But -- For nearly this same amount of money a buyer can find an Arizona or non-coastal California car with even less rust. Maybe more miles, but if you plan to completely disassemble it anyway, miles aren't the deciding actor.

Add to the above the fact that the Z restorers and collectors seem to all be gravitating toward really early cars now - the low-VIN thing. Series 1 cars are still considered more collectible than the later cars, but the earlier and lower the VIN the better. Unfortunately, yours is neither.

Or if a person wants a Z to build as a nice weekend or daily driver, why buy a Series 1 when you can buy a later 240Z in similar condition for half the price.

Don't get me wrong. For the right person, your car appears to be worth your asking price, especially for the East coast. But it may take a while to find your buyer.

[bigoak]

Fair enough...it's what impression is created by those areas. The real question is how indicative is that rust of more pervasive issues.

Not trying to give you a hard time, just stating what I'd consider in deciding whether or not to purchase or what value to put on the car. As I said, the more documentation the better.

Get more photos posted showing how good the other areas are (the battery tray does look good, not sure if you can demonstrate how good the cowl is...).

Good luck.

[geezer]

Don't take this the wrong way, and think I'm being unfairly critical, but here is my take on it. I can relate to this particular car as it reminds me a bit of the one I drug home. Also a 10/70 build. I paid far less than what you are asking and got a ton of extra parts with it. My exterior sheet metal (doors, fenders, hood, decklid, etc.) were all rust free/flawless (inside & out). I did need to replace the floors & supports and also the rockers. From looking at the pics I would venture a guess that yours will need at least these same parts replaced. The point is, for the same money, a much better candidate for restoration can be had, bypassing the rust issues yours will present. There are other members here that will be able to relate their similar experiences with rust issues. Most will advise spending more initially for a solid, rust free shell. I think yours is over priced for the amount of rust repair needed.

[newspeed]

Ok, i really appreciate the responses and honestly that why I posted this thread. I can understand the price thing but my asking price was just that and i am willing to accept the best offer i get. Problem is most buyers seem to disappear when i tell them i will accept their offer?

Would it be easier to just lower the asking price and be less flexible on the price to attract more buyers?

Arne - you seem like an absolute professional with these cars and i am always blown away by the accuracy and knowledge in your posts. Do you mind sending me a PM with a price that you feel a car like this is worth and/or what i should be asking. (I dont want to make this thread an ebay type bidding war thats why i ask for the PM)

If anyone else has a serious interest in the car please feel free to contact me.

[xray]

As an East Coast type, I can tell you that cars of this shape in "restoration" condition don't come around often. Certainly more common out west, but tack on an extra $1000 transport fee and the prices are nearly equivalent. This car looks similar to mine when I bought it, but mine had less rocker/rear quarter panel rust. I think it's fair to assume the floors will need replacing unless pics are convincing otherwise. I paid $2150 for mine in 2004, a 5/72 build. I think on the East Coast $2800-3000 is about right for what the pics show. I hope that this same car in the same condition will sell for $5000 in a couple of years...

Just because it isn't one of the first 500 doesn't mean it has no value, so don't kick it to the curb because of its VIN. Done right, it'll outprice a low VIN car that isn't done well. Numerous examples are hitting the low to mid-20s--some say cars are selling for more, but aside from the Z resto program cars, there's no concrete evidence of that yet (auction reports etc)--if there is please post it so I can adjust my comps!

We should all be happy a 260Z just sold for $21k....I'm calling Hagerty tomorrow to change my agreed value!

[Arne]

I actually think it just as well if I answer here, as my answer will not be definitive.

I'm going to take a stab at the rust and guess that it may be a little less than my yellow Series 1. Assuming that to be the case, here on the West Coast it would probably be a $1500-2000 car. Perhaps as much as $2500 if you got rather lucky. I really have no feel for the going values back East. I suspect it may be worth more back there due to the scarcity of restorable cars, but how much more I have no idea.

There are a few things to consider. If my rust assessment is correct, you can expect to pay a minimum of $4000 to have the body properly repaired and painted. Possibly as much as $7500, depending on the quality of job. (This is assuming the buyer is not able to do this work him/her self.) Add another $800-1000 in parts to restore the interior, and probably $600-800 to re-chrome the bumpers. Then figure what it will cost to refurbish all the mechanicals, brakes and electricals. The short version is that it will cost at least an additional $10,000 to refurbish this car to an adequate (weekend driver) level. Much more to truly restore it. Looked at in that light, your current asking price might be a bit high. Again, I can't say that with any certainty for your part of the country, however.

And no, I'm not climbing on the low-VIN bandwagon either. My keeper isn't even a Series 1. And you know what? I don't care. I have mine to drive, not to show or collect. Nothing wrong with a clean Series 1 over VIN 10,000. Will make someone a really nice classic car.

Last, there are those potential buyers who may be put off by a quick acceptance of their offer, with no haggling. They see you ask a price they may feel is a bit too high, so they make an initial offer. If you accept, they may begin to second-guess their assessment of the car. A quick acceptance of a significantly lower price makes them suspicious. "No counter-offer? I wonder what else is wrong with it?" You might have better luck starting at a lower asking price, coming up with a definite bottom price, and sticking with it. If someone low-balls you, counter back with your bottom price. They may feel better about it if you are a bit firmer.

[bigoak]

By and large agree with Arne. I think the biggest challenge is that when comparing to a west coast car, the assumption is the west cars are "relatively" rust-free (this is may optimistic thinking mind you...). Given the option between an east coast car showing signs of rust and a seemingly solid west coast body, I'd likely pay the premium for shipping. (Disclaimer...I'm an Ebay purchaser of a vehicle out of Michigan...cost me $4k to get her road worthy...still have addressed the make her pretty stuff...nuff said...).

There is another thread running on Arizona cars with a variety of vehicles (models & quality) available.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28607

Not much on Series I vehicles for comparables, but may give some idea of where these vehicles are trading. I'd likely pay a $500 premium for a Series I that needs resto work. Probably $1-$2k for a finished one.

Check out some of the shots some of the seller has posted in this link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Datsun-240Z-54-000-Orig-Arizona-Rust-Free_W0QQitemZ110189780541QQihZ001QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. He has added shots of the under carriage based on demand (interestingly no really good shots of the frame rails...not very clean for a rust-free, 54k mile car...hmmm...). At any rate, those are the kind of shots that will get you $$.