Need advice on this rust please

[CNIXZGO]

Hi all, just bought a nice 1972 240z, 12/71 mfg date. I need some advice on a few rust spot. The worst spot is the hatch spot, you can see where it has rusted all the way through (see screwdriver pic). Also, I have a quarter-sized hole on the right-hand side. The driver-side dogleg is almost rusted through. I have little to no body work experience. My questions is do these spots need full welding repair or can i use bondo/por-15 repairs. My floorpans are totally rustfree and i'm going to do a por-15 there and in the spare tire wheelwell. Thanks for any help you guys can give.

[EScanlon]

That Hatch Sill sheet metal is notorious for that type of rust.

With as much rust-through holes as you're showing, it's bound to also have some serious rust on the panel that the tail-lights mount to as that is the metal beneath this piece.

I wouldn't try to salvage it with POR and their Power Mesh. While it would seem to work, there are just too many ways for the moisture and air to continue getting to that area that would compromise the POR's effectiveness.

Your best bet is to remove the hatch weatherstripping, the plastic tail-light cover, the metal tail-light surrounds and the tail-lights to get a good idea of how much rust is there. You'll probably find that the rust is much more extensive than what is showing in the pictures you've posted.

The good news is that a replacement piece of sheet metal is readily available from Banzai Motorworks and also Charlie Osborne (I may be mistaken about Charlie). While not cheap, it is cut and shaped to fit directly in place of the bad metal. A few spot welds, and your hatch sill will look as good as new. You just need to take care of any underlying metal that needs repairs.

The rust on the lower edge of that front fender is typical also. Thats as a result of Datsun emptying the cowl into the plenum behind that part of the fender and then damming it up with a rubber flap. The end result is that crud and dirt gets trapped there and stays moist for weeks at a a time on top of barely protected metal.

While this is exposed enough that you could probably do a simple POR and Power Mesh repair, it's also open and easy enough to do with a simple sheet metal patch.

Then to avoid future problems extend the cowl drain hose down below the line of the fender to drain it OUTSIDE of the plenum. Take a look in my picture gallery for a few shots of how I addressed this back in 2002. It's a simple enough fix, a 45° PVC elbow, and some PVC tubing siliconed and zip-tied to the original drain tube and you're done.

FWIW

E

[carguyinok]

I know this is your new baby. But, I would get her on a lift and look over things under the car. #1 being the frame rails from the firewall forward. If you are good there then move on.

As EScanlon said new metal. It's the only real FIX for rust. If you want to do it yourself I say go for it. But, do it correct the first time. You will want to get yourself a few small airtools cut-off wheel & grinder for starters. Then a few vise-grip welding clamps. Even a little $150. sears 110 volt wirefeed welder can do the job your looking at. Just spend alittle cash on a good welding helmet with an auto dark lens & you will find welding can be easy. For what your wanting you only need tack welds & thats cake.

Buy yourself some how to books or dvd's on autobody & rust repair and dive in & have fun. Remember this should be fun so HAVE FUN!!!

Jeff

[CNIXZGO]

Thanks for the advice guys. Well today I took off the rear finisher and tail- light asemblies to investigate further. I'm happy to say I did NOT find any other rust issues outside of this hatch sill from hell. I looked inside and out on the rear panel and i found nothing but solid metal. I'm going to go ahead and order the new panel from Banzai Motorsports. I figure $110 is a cheap price to pay for knowing the rust is totally gone from that area.

[zanthus]

My hatch has the same problem. What was the website? I'd really love to get it fixed.

[Mike B]

My hatch has the same problem. What was the website? I'd really love to get it fixed.

Banzai Motorworks is http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

Charlie Osborne is http://www.datsunzparts.com/

[a7dz]

Nick;

Here are some pictures to show you what E is talking about. Mind you my hatch did not appear as rough as yours on the top surface. These are pictures I took after I sandblasted the sill area. Note the rust in picture three between the sill and the area above the tail light cut out. Next post will show the area after I removed the sill.

[a7dz]

Here is the under structure. Before and after I sand blasted them.

[a7dz]

Here is the rest of the repair as I completed it.

Note I did weld the sill in solid to stop the water traps.

I did fair in all the sill area before paint but do not have those pictures with me.

Just a note I had no intention of removing this sill when I started.

Sure am glad I did, a rust time bomb waiting to go off.

The avator picture is the same car.

[geezer]

Those are great shots Jim. The best examples I've seen of this area. You have been very meticulous with your restoration and serve as an inspiration to the rest of us. Thanks for sharing these pictures and giving others the heads up on what to look for and how to repair it.

[CNIXZGO]

Thanks for posting those Jim. You're right, yours wasn't as bad as mine is now. My whole bottom lip on the hatch area is eaten away as you can see. I think it would take a hell a lot of POR/Bondo to maybe fix it. I think the best route is to remove the whole sill and weld in the new panel. Thanks again

[Go240Zags]

Banzai Motorworks is http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

Charlie Osborne is http://www.datsunzparts.com/

Glad to hear Banzai and Charlie have the hatch sill replacement panels. It was my understanding from prior posters that they were NLA from Courtesy and other suppliers that used to have them. I have a Nissan repair panel I got from Courtesy and was considering selling it, but am not so sure now because my project has a few small spots on the inside edge. I wish I had cut out the part from my '72 parts car before I gave it away because it was in pretty good shape, but I had to act fast to get the car moved from where I was storing it so I just got most of the things I could unbolt quickly without doing any cutting.