stuck in a rut, clutch/shifter problem

[clindayag1]

today i just gave my car a tune up and couldn't wait to drive it. it started right up and sounded good. but then, i noticed that the clutch pedal had little or no resistance when depressed. then when i tried to put it in reverse, the shifter is stuck in neutral and wont go in reverse or in any other gear. i shut it off and now the shifter can move but the clutch pedal still has little resistance. i turned it back on and tried to reverse again only to hear it grind. i was able to get it into 4th but took a bit force to get it in that gear. also, another thing i noticed was that the speedometer stuck on 15mph, even when i shut it off. so is it the clutch, shifter or something else that needs to be fixed? i hate it when one fixes something only to have something else break.

[e_racer1999]

check the level in your clutch master; it's right next to the brake master.

if it's low or empty, have a friend pour some in while you bleed the system. PITA, but that's what it sounds like it is

[peterc]

Assuming the fluid level is ok then it sounds like the master clutch cylinder is shot. The internal seals are leaking so there isn't the pressure required to disengage the clutch. If you really need to move the car, put the shifter into the desired gear before you start the engine. Just don't try changing gears once the engine has started.

Replacing the master cylinder is a pretty simple and relatively inexpensive job. Undo the hydralic fluid line going into the master cylinder, undo the two bolts holding it to the firewall and replace it with the new one. Reattach the hydralic line, bleed the line (the slave cylinder has a bleeder valve) and voila, you have a clutch again.

[KDMatt]

I agree... I would even go so far as to say it sounds like your clutch slave or clutch master has given out ...

[clindayag1]

thank you everyone for your help:classic: i checked my clutch master cylinder and there was barely any fluid in it. i filled it back up and the clutch pedal started working again but still doesn't have the resistance that it used to. so i guess that the seals are worn and leaking fluid. i am going to get a new clutch master cylinder now. putting new fluid in is just temporary and i want to do a complete fix. what else should i do to make it a complete fix? new clutch slave?

[sblake01]

Did you bleed it when you filled it? I would also change the slave cylinder when you change the master and check the condition of the hose on the slave also.

[clindayag1]

Did you bleed it when you filled it? I would also change the slave cylinder when you change the master and check the condition of the hose on the slave also.

no i didn't bleed it:stupid: that could be the reason why the resitance is not the same. i'm a noob and can't find the slave cylinder. where's it located?

[e_racer1999]

follow the hose down to the transmission. if you're under the car on the (US) passenger side, you should see it attached to the transmission.

[Sailor Bob]

I just replaced the clutch and installed a new slave - I was suprised at the difference in pedel resistance. With the new system there is very little. I liked it better the other way.

[sblake01]

That could actually have nothing to do with the slave/master cyls. More likely you old clutch had a higher pressure plate spring rating.

[Sailor Bob]

According to that, OEM does not always mean OEM.

[sblake01]

Unfortunate, but true. I put a NOS pressure plate with the brand name "Sachs" in my 810 when I put the new 5 speed in and the pedal resistance is great. Better than OEM. I wish the one in my Z was like that. I bought it from Auction Frontier when the were on eBay and have never seen another one. And it was cheap!