Bucking and then died and won't start again

[sblake01]

If it were me I'd refill it after it cools down and test it to see what made the car overheat to the point where it blew coolant out of the oveflow hose (the skinny hose hanging from the radiator). Thermostat, water pump, head gasket, etc.

[zbane]

Additionally, you might as well go ahead and replace your radiator cap (assuming it's old) and thermostat.

[JakeWard]

So I drove the car to work today and shut it off, and just to see if it would I tried starting it again. It just clicks like a dead battery. I get jumped and make it half way home and it dies again ( the same bucking and not wanting to rev). I get jumped again and make it home. I decide to see what happens if I just let it idle. It took a couple minutes but it died again.

Do you guys think it could be the alternator/ battery? Would the car buck and die like that with a bad alternator/ battery?

Im really glad this site is back up too.

[sblake01]

Have you tested the battery voltage while it's running to see if it is charging?

[zbane]

It seems to me that you've got a couple different issues going on at the same time.

Firstly, the bucking and kicking:

This one seems a fuel delivery issue. Have you taken Beandip's advice from post #7? From the tank- there is crud in your tank. Admit it, we all have crud in our tanks, at least to some extent. As the pump pulls gas out of the tank, it pulls the crud/sediment/rust along with it. Eventually, so much stuff gets pulled into the screen (either in tank or in pump) that the fuel is no longer getting through. So, how are those screens, and how clean is your tank?

If you have checked all this out and everything is good, then we proceed to the filter- filters are fairly inexpensive. They do a great job at catching the small stuff, but in doing so, they get clogged themselves. If your tank is a mess, your filter is a mess, and the lines going to the filter have a bit of mess in them as well.

You are running carbs on your engine, and I know very little about carbs. Run a search on tuning carbs or wait for someone knowledgeable to chime in.

The not starting and clicking sound- Bad battery, bad starter, or bad alternator. All of these can be checked at an auto parts store. Regarding the alternator:

I disagree with Austen (76Datsun280z) on the alternator. A vehicle needs the battery to start, but needs the alternator to continue running. If your alternator is shot, you car will just draw the juice it needs to fire the plugs/lights/radio from the battery... until it drains the battery completely.

If the clicking you are hearing is coming from the engine bay-and it clicks a lot in rapid order, it is most likely the starter solenoid actively trying to engage the starter...and failing miserably.

Of course, I could be completely wrong on all counts, wouldn't be the first time. But these are some places that you should really look at. These items wear out after all.

FWIW, give or take a little.

EDIT/addendum: Re the radiator. This just happened to me the other day. Clogged radiator. How does the inside look from the filler neck?

[280~Master]

Jake,

You have some issues with that car. Have you been putting your wallet in the consol?

I would start by getting the battery tested or replaced if need be. Then have the Alt tested at Autozone or nearest parts dealer. If its bad go ahead and switch to the ZX Alt.

For the the over heating issue could be a bad cap, stuck thermostat, clogged radiator or bad water pump. I prefer to change the cap, thermostat and flush the radiator when I get a new used car you never know how long it was sitting.

Now to the fuel issues. From my trials and errors its easier to do it right the first time then to keep doing it over and over. Blow out the fuel lines from the carbs back to the tank and make sure the gas cap is off when you do this. :stupid: Once you do this you can pull the tank and clean it out along with replace bad fuel hoses. Its probly rusted and full of black crap stuck to the bottom. If its not then sell it on Ebay for a couple of thousand Dogma has a great write up on the site

[sblake01]

What I'm getting from this is that the car runs okay with a fully charged battery but gradually gets worse as the voltage diminishes. That would indicate the the initial problem is in the charging system. Could be the alternator or regulator but it could also be a fusible link, a short, etc. The other problems mentioned are ancillary to this and really can't be assessed or addressed until the charging problem is solved. Need to put a voltmeter on battery while the car is running and see if it indicates somewhere in the range of over 12.5 volts at idle with the headlights on and over 14 volts at 2400 rpm. If you're not getting that there's a problem in the changing system. I'm reluctant to say 'bad alternator' or 'bad regulator' because other things can cause charging problems.

[JakeWard]

Wow... I am REALLY glad this forum is back up. Thanks guys. I'm going to try and sort it out tomorrow (day off).

I sure hope its the alternator. Especially since its so easy to get to.

[JakeWard]

Actually come to think of it. My Mr2 did exactly the same thing, and the Alt. ended up being toast. Of course a 91 compared to a 72 is a bit of a difference.

[JakeWard]

Here it is if anyone was curious.

[JakeWard]

Well it was a bad alternator. I changed it out and it seems to run fine now. I'll see if this positive trend continues tomorrow.

The next issue to tackle is the lack of tail lights. No running lights/ turn signals or brake lights.

[sblake01]

Check the top, right fuse.