I took my battery out for winter and saw the tray area for the first time. And I did not like what I saw. This is going to keep me up for days.

It's do-able. When I had mine done, the body guy cut the spot welds holding the tray in, and sorta 'skeletonized' what was left. It still had enough meat to hold the battery. He also had to patch a large hole in the firewall under the tray where the PO may have tried to put A/C lines thru. My tray is now held in with sheet metal screws and has held up for the last 16 yrs. Get one of those battery mats that absorb the acid mist and vapors or spills from the battery. It will help along the way.

It doesnt look all THAT bad, if you want to do it right, you will have to cut out the little area and patch around that hole, or you could use some POR15, get as much as the rust off that you can and brush on the POR and it will at least not get any worse. And the battery mat is a good idea as well, you can get one from Motorsports (MSA) for a few bucks.

It's definitely do-able.

From the one picture you post the two areas I've noted with red are the most concern. The arrow shows a definite hole. The circled area is difficult to ascertain whether that's lifted caulking or something else.

Simplest solution for now (due to it being winter in Indiana) is to wire brush it as best as possible to remove all the flaking rust etc. and then apply something to slow the rust down until spring. A simple shot of metal paint (not primer), even a good spray of WD-40 for the time being will help set your mind at ease.

The temperature outside right now is not the best for removing fenders, sand blasting, or applying POR or any of the other rust encapsulating methods. Almost without exception they'll require 65°F and higher.

Once the temperatures climb, then you can get in there and properly address it with either sand-blasting, some acid, POR, Zero Rust etc.

2¢

E

Mark;

Just finished my reply and noticed yours.

Sorry to disagree, but poorly applied POR is a bad idea. The temp and humidity at this time of year, especially in the Midwest makes it a real crapshoot as to it's performing properly. Then most of it won't adhere properly and what does will make it harder to address in the spring.

POR is a great product, and I use it and recommend it often. However, one of it's biggest downfalls is that it does require strict adherence to it's instructions for application. Skimp or try to short-cut them and you'll literally peel it off like a decal.

FWIW

E

Another option for rust slowing would be to get some brush on (or rattle can) rust converter. I've used it in the past and it does certainly help. Just clean what you can, wait for a semi low humidity day, mask it off and go at it.

While you are looking around, you might want to pull the cowl off and take a peek what's down there...

George71z: I do have that mat in there already. I'm gld you mentioned it.

Escanlon: That you so much for taking the time to show me that! I appreciate that so much.

As far as POR15, we've used it on the Delorean and it is absolutely an amazing product. But you do have to follow the directions. The first time I used it, it was too cold and it peeled right off after it FINALLY cured.

Mine was worse as it had rusted all the way through. We ended up having the tray and all the rust cut out and have all new metal welded in down there, then having the tray get welded back into place.

Yes it can be saved looks no where near as bad as these:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20117&page=2