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The State of Things....


WingZr0

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Here is a picture of a head (N42) for reference. As far as I know and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, numbers 1-11 red are all studs. And numbers 12-17 blue are all bolts.

Which ones are supposed to be the long studs I don't know. Maybe someone else knows?

attachment.php?attachmentid=5142&d=1087257370

Ok,... Old Thread Dredge here from where I found

my answer ,(search function ~_^).

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13613&highlight=manifold+studs

But were does the 4 "shorter" studs go?

Best I figure is 2 on the very bottom middle (5 & 7), and 1 each on the very ends (1 & 11) .

Since that leaves the other 7 "longer" studs in a logical pattern with the

odd numbered stud in the center hole (6) by itself.

My head is an N47 which I suppose is similar build to the N42 in this case.

Any answers or other suggestions :errm: ?

~Z~

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I think the studs go in whatever holes haven't been replaced with bolts! :-) Honestly, any exhaust manifold holes that can use a stud, put one in there--the holes that don't have studs are the very top ones, stock, I think, that are for the intake manifold.

Half of mine were already replaced with bolts, so I just kept them.

I just went through what post #1 looked like...doesn't look like it, but this is a lot of work, to get it running!!!!

I replaced my exhaust manifold, because the original had 2 stripped studs on the flange that went to the rest of the exhaust...got a great deal on ebay on a replacement exhaust manifold ($40 total with shipping) that also had the emission tubing removed and welded up...so I took off all the emission stuff as well....also welded up all holes on balance tube--it looks like the european ones--runs a lot better now,

but it was a lot of work to get back to running state from the picture of post #1 !!!!!!

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By the way, Victor said in the other thread:

<<

It eases assembly and disassmbly. With the bolts out, you set the exhaust manifold on the studs, set up the bridge washers, start the nuts, then you slide the intake manifold down under the bridge washers and install the bolts. This saves serveral minutes of dropped nuts trying to install them on the bridge washers while reach under and around the intake manifold.

It's a common modification we do on the roadsters, but stock on the 240.

BTW all the 240's I've worked on had the same "TR" "7" bolts.

>>

From just doing this work, this is very very true. Using bolts on the very top row for the intake lets you slide the intake from above, directly down into its set place for installation...if studs are there, this would be impossible. With a lot of stuff installed in this area, it's easier with bolts on the top row.

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Best I figure is 2 on the very bottom middle (5 & 7), and 1 each on the very ends (1 & 11) .

Since that leaves the other 7 "longer" studs in a logical pattern with the

odd numbered stud in the center hole (6) by itself.

It's been a while since I had the manifold off either car (both N47s) but I think you're right. 5, 7, 1, and 11 only go through the exhaust as does 6 and the rest 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, and 10 hold both the intake and exhaust so they should be the longer ones. IIRC. Remember, for the most part the old thread was referring to 240Zs and I believe that the manifolds on a 280 are thicker which would require the longer studs at the common mounting points.

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I just went through what post #1 looked like...doesn't look like it, but this is a lot of work, to get it running!!!!

Thaynx for clearing that up :)

but don't let the shop towls fool ya :rambo: I actually found kind of easy

(Except for that Darn EGR Tube :hurt:).

The mani's are still off awaiting that EGR Tube in the mail via MSA.

If it wasn't for that and smog stuff in Cali I would've did what you done

and put her back together 2 weaks ago when I got the FI Int/Exh Gasket LOL !

All thats left is reset my timing, mess with the idle screw and go from

there with buynig clutch disc and new Grand Prix GT 215/60/14

raised white letter tires :)

~Z~

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It's been a while since I had the manifold off either car (both N47s) but I think you're right. 5, 7, 1, and 11 only go through the exhaust as does 6 and the rest 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, and 10 hold both the intake and exhaust so they should be the longer ones. IIRC. Remember, for the most part the old thread was referring to 240Zs and I believe that the manifolds on a 280 are thicker which would require the longer studs at the common mounting points.

YESSSS, HA HAAAAAAAA...., wheres my Prize :DROFL

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Thaynx for clearing that up :)

but don't let the shop towls fool ya :rambo: I actually found kind of easy

(Except for that Darn EGR Tube :hurt:).

The mani's are still off awaiting that EGR Tube in the mail via MSA.

If it wasn't for that and smog stuff in Cali I would've did what you done

and put her back together 2 weaks ago when I got the FI Int/Exh Gasket LOL !

All thats left is reset my timing, mess with the idle screw and go from

there with buynig clutch disc and new Grand Prix GT 215/60/14

raised white letter tires :)

~Z~

thanks, Wingzo!

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Everything went great so far considering :)

I didn't finish up last night, but the entire fuel rail is back in place,

Fuel Injectors hooked up,

Smog Lines hokked up so on and so forth with just

the Fule Preasure Regulator left to go last.

There was more work than I initially expected with having to Man Up and

fit the new FI Hoses from MSA into place which are a tight squeeze and

rebending some sections of fuel rail into proper shape.

That and figuring out where certain parts went to where, forgeting to

bring my pre disassembly engine photo with me from home :D

But I pretty much figured it all out and left the FPR last having to

go to work by then. BOOOOOOOO :mad:

All in all I spent about 3 hours of time on her with the first half hour drinking some

Organic Larger Beer from Samuel Smith :)

Left the car ingintion in the ON poisition by mistake Wedneday :finger: :lick: :tapemouth,

so hopefully me aunt can give me a jump start

with her Nissan SE.

Other than that though everything is hooked up and ready for a

check and tripple check before starting her up today ^_^

I got those wire holders by the way Blake, Thyanx ^_^

~ ~ ~ Heres a tip for attaching the exuast pipe back to the Exhaust Manifold

on reassembly.

Lossing the middle hanger clamp behind the Cat Converter or Trans Tunel

and that will allow the Y-pipe to move more freely and line up with the

studs on Exhaust Manifold and connected easily.

After that retighten the hanger clamps!

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OK! ! ! !

She's all back together now ^_^

Boy it was a battle with that Fuel Preasure Regulator puting the new FI

hoses on.

It was the last part to go on so those of you in the know know how hard

that can be trying to get those hoses to go in such a tight of a space :beard:

Jus awaiting juice from my buddy tommorow who I think I have to bribe ROFL

Other than that, YEAHHHHHH :)

~Z~

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She started up !!!!

She lit with one turn of the key no hassles.

No truckish sound at all that I noticed.

She ran fine for about a second or so, very smooth and very

race car like, when I got 1 Rev in and she started to knock.

I looked down at my fuel gauge and saw someone had syphoned off

my Half Tank of Gas :mad:

~Z~

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