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Floor Pan Part Question


swflaz

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I'm restoring a 72Z and have a floor part question. I'm replacing the passenger side floor pan. As you know, the floor

pan kits come with a metal support on the underside that stops at the toepan. However, there is a wedge shaped metal piece that runs forward from the toepan to a point wher the right front support strut connects. This is rusted out and doesn't seem to be part of the kit. On the driver's side, the original part is all one piece that goes under the floor pan and includes the forward piece I'm talking about. Hope this is not too confusing an explanation. This is not about the front frame rails which are a seperate issue. Thanks ahead of time to all you knowledgeable folks who share info with the rest of the group. PS the wedge shaped portion is about 16 inches long from the toepan forward. Whew.

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I'm guessing you are referring to the radius rod mount.

You will either have to have a new one folded up and welded in or hack one off a wreck.

If you can post a pic. of the damaged one, perhaps we can advise the best course of action, repair or replace:ermm:

Is this the bit causing you grief?

[This is actually the passanger side of a RHD '73 240Z]

post-13952-14150801975251_thumb.jpg

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Nissanman. That was very helpfull. Thanks for the correction on the radius rod mount and the great photo. You hit the nail on the head. Unfortunately, the answer was the one I feared most. Looks like we need to fab something or, as you say, find a hulk. The passenger side is mostly rusted out and I believe beyond repair. The driver's side is just fine. Guess I need to get to work. Any other thoughts out there? Any parts cars available in Florida? Thank you for the quick and accurate reply.

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Hey Rodger, have you bought the floor pans yet? If not, you can buy the floor pans, minus the floor support from ZedFindings and then use something like these floor supports from Baddog. I just had some bent up locally to my specs. and boxed them in to the front frame rails. That should address your problem. I'm betting both sides will need attention. The rust damage isn't so obvious till you dig into it.

http://www.baddogparts.com/index.htm

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Ron, thanks for the good input. This should save me from a fab job which I'm really not up to myself. Checked the floor pans on Charles O's site and sent an email question to John. On his 280Z rails he says they will fit over the exixting ones.I'm asking him if the same is true for the 240Z. If so, I'll just replace both sides. The driver's side is in pretty good shape. PS, I think I'm ready for an avatar like yours.

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Good point Arne. I should know that but, the outward appearance of mine wasn't too bad until all the paint & undercoating was removed and I eventually turned the whole car inside out. There were areas that looked rock solid, but in fact were being eaten from the inside out. The image of what mine looked like is burned in my memory, making me a little more sceptical than perhaps I should be. If I could offer only one piece of advice, it would be, go after the hidden problem areas and get some POR 15 or other treatment applied to keep the rust in check, before it becomes terminal.

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Arne, that's exactly what happened here. The battery box has significant rust that has progressed downward.

Ron, you've got me concerned about the left side now. I'll take a much closer look. Like they say, you can pay me now or pay me later. And later is always more expensive. Thanks for the good input guys. I appreciate the help.

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Have you pulled the front fenders yet? the cowl drains are a problem area just in front of the doors. The hidden space holds moisture and rust out the leading end of the rockers. If this happens the wet drains back and takes out the rocker and dog leg.

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No, I've not pulled the fenders yet but I definitely will. They look good outside but inside?? Also plan to POR-15 the underside when all the rust I can identify is scrubbed. I had the underside and engine compartment pressure cleaned which makes it easier to see what's going on in the exposed areas (grease and dirt removed).

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The Bad Dog rails (both 240 and 280) fit over existing frame rails but (there's always a but), they won't if someone used the rails as a lift point, you ran over a curb etc. Then you'd need to grind down the high spots. All this is a tad easier than all the work needed to get the undercarriage and interior ready for welding.

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  • 1 month later...

I got parts from zed findings and Baddog as suggested. The body man did an excellent welding job and they fit and look great. Driver's side pan turned out to be OK. Thanks again everyone for the great suggestions.

swflaz

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