Engine Swap vs. Bore & Stroke Job

[Oiluj]

I'm considering an engine upgrade.

1) Can get a rebuilt long block L28 from Datsun Parts on e-bay for about $2500, or

2) have Rebello Racing do a basic 2.8L bore & stroke job on my current engine for about $3500

Performance is about the same both ways. One benefit with Rebello is I keep my matching engine / chassis #'s.

Anyone have experience with Datsun Parts long blocks?

How big a deal is keeping my matching engine / chasis numbers?

[sblake01]

If Rebello will do a 'bore and stroke job' as you say for $3500, I'd go that route. I doubt that that's and accurate amount since strokers cost much more than that to build. You must mean a rebuild job with an overbore. I personally wouldn't buy an engine on eBay. Others opinions might differ. The matching number thing is only a big deal as a selling point to some. Doesn't matter much to me because, even though both my Z and my 810 have matching numbers, I'd never get what I really want for them if I ever sold them. Who does?

[Oiluj]

Your'e correct. I went back to my notes and the price from Rebello is just for a bore & rebuild.

[code3z]

Matching numbers are only for the most hardcore collectors. If your going to modify your Z in any way, there is no reason to keep matching numbers. I have a 3.1 stroker from Rebello in my slightly modified Z. No matching numbers. The engine is just what i want. So if your not going to keep your Z stock, go for the biggest, baddest motor you want.

[beandip]

In my opinion , matching numbers is over rated. It is for show cars that are original completely. If your wanting a complete original Z don't modify ANY THING. If you change from stock they you are modified. I redid my Z for ME and gave the L-24 away. I am running a F-54 from a '82ZX and am vary happy with the result. I know I will get some flack for this opinion , but such is life.

[bigoak]

#'s mathcing on a 280Z doesn't mean much unless you have serious show car. Nonetheless, I'd go with the re-work of your existing block. By all accounts Rebello does good work and you will know what you are getting.

[gogriz91]

While more expensive I don't think you would regret going with Rebello. My next question would be "What am I now prepared to pay" when Rebello says more work is needed based on what they find when they get into the block.

[DeesZ]

I'd stay away from an eBay purchase on an L28 rebuild - unless you know the vendor and the type of work that they do. I've sold a bunch of 240/280Z stuff on eBay, and some of the (as advertised) used and less desirable stuff went to a guy who sells rebuilt engines on eBay. I have no idea what he did with my cast-offs, but by the same token would not be buying a rebuilt engine from him.

Matching numbers is a selling point in my opinion, but I do agree that by some it may be over rated, and in some situations completely meaningless. (Perhaps that is just burnt into my brain as a result of collecting firearms for decades....) Granted, in the Z-car world, it means most to the hard-core collector, not the person who wishes to modify a car. But there are a lot of us in between those two points who do put some value on matching numbers. I did when I bought my car, anyway. IMHO I'd at least keep the block for the time may come when you wish to sell it and without the original block some people may not be interested.

By the same token, it is your car, and your desires are a bit different than mine, and your opinion counts more. If you want performance and feel that you need an L28 in your 240 (that's what you are driving, right?), go for it. By most accounts you'll see a pleasing performance difference. I've driven some L28 turbo set-ups that have been simply awesome.... made going back to my L24 with SU's a bit disappointing, but I got over it quickly. If doing a rebuild with some mods, Rebello has a stellar reputation and would be my choice if I could afford the up-scale. I have a spare L24 long block, and will be rebuilding it (or the one in my car) as close to factory specs as I can keep it. There are several people locally that I would trust to do the job for me (long term experience in the profession and lots of L-Series experience), or I may take it on as a project/learning experience myself.

[Diseazd]

If you have a half decent restoration, I'd build you a nice 2800 for performance and keep the numbers matching engine in storage. If you sell the car, the new owner may want to bring her back to original specs, and a used 2400 ain't worth that much for resale.

[Oiluj]

Thanks for all the input. I'm going with the Rebello Racing upgrade.

Won't be able to pull the engine for about a month, so it will be awhile. More money, but should be well worth it!

[280~Master]

Not from Datsun-Parts he changed his ebay name and was ur-gellis.

Thanks to another member, we know that ur-gellis is now datsun-parts. He changed his ebay name to try to getaway from his reputation. If you search the forums, you will find he has been a questionable seller and is sporatic when it has come to customer service.

You could try this place for and engine.

http://stores.safeshopper.com/index.htm?728[\url]

or call MSA and find out who they use and go over MSA for a savings.

[TomoHawk]

In my opinion, matching numbers over rated. It is for show cars that are original completely.

OK, but what would it mean if the numbers are different?

For example, if the chassis number is 433087, and the engine number is 280389, does that mean the engine is older than the chassis?

Can you tell something just from the engine number, like if it starts with 280, it was for a 280Z?

thxZ