Posted December 26, 200717 yr comment_232079 I have a 76 z. Had the normal problems of the Z electrical gremlins which is caused by corrosion. Turn signals, dome light and horns did not work. Did not have to buy new parts. I tried the contact cleaner and turn signals would not work. Sprayed WD-40 on contacts and signals work perfect. You will have to open up the emergency switch in the center of the console and spray it as well. For the dome light the door switches had to be pried out, sprayed and twisted. Because of the horn getting water and dirt at the front by the bumper corrosion started. I took the wires off of the horns up front by the bumper and sprayed WD-40 and it works. Wild Dog is the shhhh. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 26, 200717 yr comment_232094 I can tell you that WD-40 isn't as good as think when it comes to electrical connections. First of all, it's flamable, both the propellant used and the product itself. That in itself would prevent me from using it on any electrical item be it car, home, etc. If the connection gets hot for whatever reason, current flow, proximity to hot items, etc., the residue can catch fire. Use electronic contact cleaner. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232094 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 26, 200717 yr comment_232096 One other thought on this since its certainly not the first time I've seen it here. In fact, in the area of cleaning contacts on fuel injection or any other electrical connection, this is just bad information. It's certainly not the first time on this or other sites that this has been suggested. Not just WD-40 but Kroil, Deoxit, LPS or anything labled as a penetrating lube, lubricant penetrant, or anything of that nature, is not designed to clean electrical connections. Read the cautions and warnings on the label. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232096 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 26, 200717 yr comment_232097 I agree with Stephen on this one. Even if we discount the flammability issue, the residue left after the fact will likely INCREASE the resistance over time. So while the initial results may have been good, long term I'd suspect the problems will return. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232097 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 26, 200717 yr comment_232100 What's wrong with DeOxit? It's specifically designed to remove oxidation from electrical connectors, and I have seen it do so. It's the first thing I use to clean connections. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232100 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 26, 200717 yr comment_232116 What's wrong with DeOxit? It's specifically designed to remove oxidation from electrical connectors, and I have seen it do so. It's the first thing I use to clean connections.Nothing wrong with it. I was listing a few penetrating lubricants and inadvertantly added it to my list. The main point was not to use a penetrating lube to do the job of an electronic contact cleaner. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232116 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 27, 200717 yr comment_232120 Oh, OK. DeOxit 100 is theformula containing 100% only the deoxidant, and DeOxit 5 is a formula wth 5% of the deoxidant and the rest is a protective film and a lubricant.thxZ Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26584-electrical-fix-signals-horn-dome-light/#findComment-232120 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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