Posted December 31, 200717 yr comment_232508 Hi guys,I may have made a post similar to this one quite a while ago, but the 260 has been sitting for quite a while. Has anyone had a positive experience with the fiberglass hoods or any of the fenders as far as fit? Also do the pin down hoods still hinge in the front and then just pin instead of latch near the firewall?thanks for the help,brian Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 31, 200717 yr comment_232533 If the fiberglass hood has a oem style lip around the edges then I would say go for it. if it doesn't, there will be a gap larger then you might like between the fender and hood on both driver and pass side. You will be able to see the engine compartment through it. I did not care for that. Just my 2 cents. And go with a fiberglass hood that uses the existing latch system so that you won't have to pin it. Now thats 4 cents. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-232533 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 31, 200717 yr Author comment_232553 Hey guys does having too many fiberglass panels on the front end like hood and both fenders leave too much weight off and give you that effect where the front end sticks up in the air at a slight angle with the gap between the wheel and fender? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-232553 Share on other sites More sharing options...
December 31, 200717 yr comment_232582 It might rise a little bit but not too much. You are probably only losing 100 lbs total with both hood and fenders. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-232582 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 1, 200817 yr comment_232673 I bought a fiberglass cowl hood in 1980 (cheap) and noticed where they attach to the hinge both sides were damaged I think from the excess force the tension/torsion rods put on the mounting flanges. Both will have to be re-enforced or the rods removed. Just something to look out for.Bonzi Lon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-232673 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 8, 200817 yr comment_233320 art@nissansport: i had to SSSTTTRRREEETTCCCHHH the fenders down to mount them and had to place about 1/8" stack of washers behind the upper fender mounting screws. about 8 (yes EIGHT) hours of pulling-fitting-checking-pulling-fitting a dozen times...finally got them to fit nicely. not for the first-timer-body-man.i think the mold they must use is the inner stock metal fender 'diameter' then add 1/8" of fiberglass fender material and then the fender is dimensionally 1/4" smaller for fitment...just my $0.02 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-233320 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 200817 yr comment_233326 The best fiberglass and CF hoods and hatches by all accounts are the ones from www.betamotorsports.com. Fenders don't weigh much in steel (11 lbs I think???), I doubt you'd be able to cut more than a couple lbs off the fenders. Might be worth it if you're trying to cut every last oz, otherwise could be considered a waste of money... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-233326 Share on other sites More sharing options...
January 9, 200817 yr Author comment_233379 so i guess i wont go fiberglass unless i absolutely have to. thanks for the advice guys. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/26621-fiberglass-hoods-and-replacement-panels/#findComment-233379 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Create an account or sign in to comment