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distributor points wiring correct?(pic)


madkaw

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I took my distributor apart to make sure my mechanical advance was not rusted up. I am not getting spark now and I am thinking I don't have my points grounded properly. Anyone want to help me out here. I knew I should have used this camera BEFORE I took the dizzy apart. I think I have it right but could use some verification.

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Steve, check the area I circled in red. Make certain that the spring end is not grounding out there. I've seen instances where the insulator can snap out of the hole when the screw for the lead wire is tightened. Make certain that the insulator on the end of the spring is well seated in it's hole.

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Steve, I just took the cap off the dizzy in my Z and it looks just like the photo you have, as far as where the wires are going. I can't really tell from the photo, but the wire that runs from the points to the terminal with the black wire looks like it might be frayed. You might make sure it doesn't have a break in it. That wire broke in my old dizzy - I've got a rebuilt one in the car now.

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You can do a simple static test to determine if the points plate is generating spark.

Make sure the points are closed, turn the ignition ON and open the points with your thumbnail or a small screwdriver.

The points should arc slightly and pulse the ignition coil.

If you connect an earthed sparkplug to the coil to cap High Tension connection, the plug should spark with a nice big fat BLUE spark.

If that doesn't happen then there is no point, pun intended, in cranking the engine:(

If that does happen then re-fit the cap and take it from there.

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Looks to be wired right except I can't see if condenser is connected on side.

Just going through a couple obvious things...

You tested for spark from the coil's lead directly right? (As opposed to a plug wire) Testing at this point doesn't require cap or rotor and tells you right away if the points/condenser are doing their job.

Is the dizzy plugged all the way in? Does the cam rotate when the engine turns?

Did you set the gap right?? (approx) .020" when cam has points in the open position. Not that it makes much diff but did you set the gap when installed on the engine? Set again if not so. In a pinch cereal box cardboard can be used for gap setting.

Is the condenser's lead attached to the plastic block's stud? (block in 1:30 position) You might have forgotten to reconnect this.

Try wiggling the single harness lead on the spade. (1:30 position) It might not have a good connection. If so clean spade and pinch female conn gently with pliers for a tighter fit. (With female off of course)

The wire to the points (from said block) looks a bit old. Did you take it off to check for bare spots/continuity? Might just want to make a temporary wire to test if this one has bit the dust. That sharp bend at the points may have caused a break.

2c

Jim

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Guys,

All good suggestions, but unfortunetly i am stuck in a motel 200 miles from my car. I have tried some of these ideas ,but didn't get to finish before the phone rang and I had to go. I tried moving the points open for a static check but I didn't see any spark. The condenser is hooked up. I was concerned that i got the ground from the points to the right place. I appreciate the responses and thought i should reply to let you know that this wouldn't be another dead end thread. I am also currently waiting for a pertronix kit in the mail. Maybe by this weekend I can do some more trouble shooting-damn job always getting in the way of my fun!

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