Gauges and Fusebox mystery

[spikeyamir]

Makes sense to me now Nissanman. So based on this I'm assuming that the Hazard switch doesn't have anything to do with the ign. relay as it does work... Also I noticed that when I turned my turn signals on I hear a single little "click" from the flasher relay. I guess I'm getting that ign. relay after all...

Thanks for the help everyone.

[usafdarkhorse]

I have the same problems as you on my own 76 Z except my flasher relay does not "click" when I turn the turn signals on. I switched in a different flasher relay and it still did not work.

I also got into the car and switched out ignition relays, however, right after this my car started to run very poor and I still had no gauges. I suppose I'll switch my old one back in and pry open the newer one to see how it works.

The other day when I started my car for the first time in 2 months and had replaced the blown fuses, the tach worked for about 3 seconds before it dropped to 0 again and had blown the fuse again.

[Nissanman]

the car runs off a push button and a toggle switch. If the ignition needs to be on for certain things to work, how to do get around that?

Assuming that the push button is for the START power to the starter solenoid and the toggle switch is for IGNITION power, then to simulate the key being in the ON position just throw the toggle switch.

No problem with it being wired this way barring security:nervous:

You could always re-locate the push button starter to a secret location for some measure of security:devious:

Also I noticed that when I turned my turn signals on I hear a single little "click" from the flasher relay. I guess I'm getting that ign. relay after all...

Whoa there.

The Flasher can is of the simple variety I believe.

By that I mean it is a 2 terminal can.

Unless there are working globes in the globe holders and all the wiring to them is intact, the flasher may not "flash" as such, just click when power is connected to it.

It needs a current draw through it to do the "flashing" thing:nervous:

So based on this I'm assuming that the Hazard switch doesn't have anything to do with the ign. relay as it does work

The Hazard switch re-arranges the turn signal wiring to allow the Hazard flasher can to power all turn signal lamps simultaneously.

If the Hazard relay is removed, the turn signals should still work OK via the column TS switch and the separate Flasher relay can.

If the Hazard switch is removed, the turn signals will NOT work unless you bridge the two Green wires together and the the two Green Yellow wires together [colours may vary on different years].

[Valerie1043]

"You could always re-locate the push button starter to a secret location for some measure of security..."

That is def a good idea. My bf wired a push buttom for his 240sx to where the cig lighter was. Noone can start the car unless they know where it is and since it looks like the cig lighter, if you dont know what he did, you'll have a hell of a time finding it.

As for the 280, there is a main power on/off switch on the outside of the car. There is a big red key for this and if that is not with the car, nothing gets power. So that right there is some security in itself, but he may want to hid the push button. He also wants to add some toggle switches to the dash for the fuel pumps and some other things if we cant get the original wiring to cooperate.

[Nissanman]

The big red key is for a BATTERY ISOLATOR which is a requirement for racing.

You'll definitely need that turned on to do any fault finding:nervous:

It is probably best to connect the fuel pump power to some sort of safety switch if it isn't already.

If the engine stops for whatever reason then power is cut to the fuel pump to avoid feeding a possible fire.

Race cars usually have this fitted.

It can take the form of a pressure switch attached to the engine oil gallery so that if the engine oil pressure drops suddenly, e.g. collision/rollover, then the fuel pump power is cut.