turn signal and gauges help...

[usafdarkhorse]

By the way our cars are very similar:

305 Blue

VIN#: HLS30297088, 3/76

[fuzze]

hey , just back in from shop , looks like your getting some input elsewhere , awesome ! to answer some questions ,if you look at pic # 1 you can see some one tried to bypass wires in switch . first thing I did was to put it back the way it should be , solder and heatshrink tubeing . Nothing was solved . In the dash the hazard switch toggle was broken and wouldn't engage so I replaced with a new\used toggle from a friends part car , Progress was made as now I had all 4 hazard lights flashing , success , but still couldn't get turn sigs to operate . this is where the brass shim comes in to play . I made a couple of shims and dry fit them to the bushing as you can see . I then put it all back together to see if any difference and I then had faint signals when I engaged the lever . I took it all back apart and placed 2 thicker shims around bushing hoping that I could make more down pressure to the pin assey in the turn switch .With bushing wrapped snuggly, I re-fit back into lever assey, fit into column , tried again and signals worked like the day out of the factory .Satisfied, I Pulled it apart once again and crazy glued the shims to the bushing,first one on the bottom and then the second one to the top .Then grease the rails so the bushing will slide easier , grease the rocker contacts in switch and then put it all back together for the final time and I

have been driving around safe and legal since .No pinholes to keep the shims in place where required , they just float around the bushing like the happy little helpers that they are ! Just the way Mcgyver would have fixed it too. hope this helps to clear things up

Cheers

Chris

[usafdarkhorse]

Hmmm

So, the shims put enough pressure on the slider to engage the switch? I'm still not sure if that's even my problem but I can try it. The slider and shaft assembly works fine because I believe my switch to be rebuilt, but I could be wrong. I'm just having trouble seeing how, with no holes drilled to let the shaft through and hold the brass shims, how it could put enough pressure against the slider in the U chamber to engage it up and down.

I should be getting some serious pressure on the ball and rocker with the little finishing nail end I placed with the spring to give it some leverage.

Also, what do you think about the the advice given that my hazard switch could be the culprit. Is this true if my hazards still flash?

What about the blown fuse?

hey , just back in from shop , looks like your getting some input elsewhere , awesome ! to answer some questions ,if you look at pic # 1 you can see some one tried to bypass wires in switch . first thing I did was to put it back the way it should be , solder and heatshrink tubeing . Nothing was solved . In the dash the hazard switch toggle was broken and wouldn't engage so I replaced with a new\used toggle from a friends part car , Progress was made as now I had all 4 hazard lights flashing , success , but still couldn't get turn sigs to operate . this is where the brass shim comes in to play . I made a couple of shims and dry fit them to the bushing as you can see . I then put it all back together to see if any difference and I then had faint signals when I engaged the lever . I took it all back apart and placed 2 thicker shims around bushing hoping that I could make more down pressure to the pin assey in the turn switch .With bushing wrapped snuggly, I re-fit back into lever assey, fit into column , tried again and signals worked like the day out of the factory .Satisfied, I Pulled it apart once again and crazy glued the shims to the bushing,first one on the bottom and then the second one to the top .Then grease the rails so the bushing will slide easier , grease the rocker contacts in switch and then put it all back together for the final time and I

have been driving around safe and legal since .No pinholes to keep the shims in place where required , they just float around the bushing like the happy little helpers that they are ! Just the way Mcgyver would have fixed it too. hope this helps to clear things up

Cheers

Chris

[usafdarkhorse]

Look at the picture. Correct? :DROFL

[fuzze]

Shims only on bushing that is in the lever assey , the switch received nothing . the crazy wiring that you see is from the po . I plugged the green yellow back into plug and the white\red splice to the green\black is what I put back to factory . You can probably see the little nub of r\w wire from back of switch that i soldered a new piece to . Fun stuff eh . Ok gotto go , Afc final on the big screen , I'll check back later

Chris

[usafdarkhorse]

Ah I see.

Well, I shall see what I can do with it. If it works. Great! If it doesn't...well...then that means I didn't lose anything and I know that that's not it! haha

I'll post tomorrow on what I've done and if anything happens!

[fuzze]

the shim puts enough down pressure on the spring assey that is built into switch so that the contacts that are on the rocker arm ends send current to the signals . I've read elsewhere that the switch itself can be rebuilt and the contacts built higher by soldering with a high silver content solder , then lightly filed to get close to original size ,although you need micro tiny fingers to do the task ! The shim way doesn't seem to logical at first , but it worked for me ,LMAO when it did Too , and I started off with completely nothing . Try first with just one shim on the bottom to push in the spring and let your good karma carry you the rest of the way . As far as fuses , haven't got a clue , not my fortay .

Chris

[fuzze]

Ok 1 more post , I couldn't wrap my head around our lack of mutual understanding of the process until I realized that u figure that there needs to be a hole in the shim to help guide it along .Not necessary at all , maybe a small dimple at best if it might make a difference . Mine just pushes against the spring pin with good old friction . As a side note maybe a good acid test would be to just manually test the switch with power on and push down on spring pin and slide it back and forth , unless there is a grounding issue it should engage the signals ? Don't worry we are not beating a dead horse ,we are educating the masses .Remember they said that Columbus was going to sail off the edge of the earth.That is all .

Chris

[usafdarkhorse]

Thread resurrection.

As ironic as this may be, I sold my 76 Z last May.

I bought a 1991 Acura NSX and had a great time then figured out how much money I had in a car with this economy. So I sell the NSX.

Then I pick up a 75 280Z with a built L28ET and...basically everything...

HOWEVER, still have the turn signal problem hahahaha.

This time, no signals and when the hazards are on, everything blinks except the front right.

I took the switch out and cleaned it. Maybe grounding problem?