I need to do the same, I'm getting tired of using a hammer and stuff.

- Ian.

Thanks to all that answered. I am unfortunately, fully aware that the area underneath the area is the framerail I do have a hole about an inch in diameter further back on it where it looks like the undercoating had been scraped off years before. I figure a new passenger frame rail is in the future once I get to the underside. It looks pretty rusted in the rail, I did the screwdriver test yesterday on the rail, poking, prodding and it didnt open up but I am sure it has been weakened. I will probably go with a frame rail from Bad Dog or something similar.

Thans as well for the tips on sanding pads, etc. I used the 3M product on my harley tank and fenders a couple years ago and it worked great, I will also check into the other product Escanlon.

Speaking of a portable 110V MIG welder, I thought of that today, I wonder if Harbor Freight has a cheap one? I'll check into it, my nephew works there and can get me a 20% discount on anything I buy...although I've only been in there once.

I am figuring once I get to the body work I am going to find some more monsters lurking, notably in the cowl area and once I remove the pass. fender.

Oh well, I bought it as a project

If the frame rail is involved,then $hit-can the POR fix.Time to stitch steel.

I guess I must be one of the few left that knows just how poor a job using fibreglass does to fix structural areas like this.

Cutting out and welding is the best and in my opinon only method to repair rust. Anything else should be considered temproary or a band-aid used for a car you don't care about and only has to last a few months, such as a winter beater.

Ok, I need some advice. I sourced this welder and did some reading into it..

the first link is for the welder.. a 90 amp flux core wire that uses 115v

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44567

the 2nd link is a page I found that claims a unit like this is great for moderate auto repairs. Located on page 44.

http://books.google.com/books?id=OpGC-r-fmPoC&pg=PA43&lpg=PA43&dq=auto+body+work+steel+what+gauge&source=web&ots=e_GXyPmQlT&sig=XAosKkt6eK1oW_yy5R1zIu59Dz8#PPA44,M1

I also read that these units are best suited for material 20 gauge and thicker..

I would appreciate your comments.

What is your budget?Do you have 220 available anywhere?

You might want to take a look at this post that I made on HybridZ

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128208

I used panel adhesive to make my repairs as opposed to welding.

Not sure if it's right for you but It's working for me.

Derek

You might want to take a look at this post that I made on HybridZ

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=128208

I used panel adhesive to make my repairs as opposed to welding.

Not sure if it's right for you but It's working for me.

Derek

Intersting post Derek, thanks for sharing. I remembered reading many years ago that G.M. was using an adhesive to bond together the leaf springs of the new Corvettes.

I am still up in the air on a solution, I will be spending the rest of the day stripping the paint from the interior. I just got back from Home Depot armed with discs and wheels...just waiting for the garage to warm up a little

Ok, I am BEAT!

I have been stripping the paint from the interior for hours! I dont even have the passenger side finished yet. This project BLOWS! When I bought this car, I thought it would be fun, theraputic...

I went and bought some chemical stripper, the strongest, most potent stuff Home Depot had..I did a search earlier on Jasco but they dont carry it anymore. It isnt working at all, it smells nasty and I think its too damn cold for it to work. I am thinking of getting a heat gun and see if that takes it up any better/easier than the stripper wheels. There are so many nooks to get into this job is anything but fun.

I started thinking of just going and getting some rustoleum and painting over the existing stuff that is down but...I already bought the POR-15 and I dont want to half a$$ this as tempting as it might be.

Jasco is a brand name, Aircraft Remover Stripper is a product name for the stuff made by Klean Strip. Both of these should work well.

There are other strippers out there, the important part is to note if it will strip enamels and epoxy coverings. Look for warnings about using it on top of Bondo (Polyester Filler) or Fiberglass Gel-Coat (although it may just be a note to be careful of time).

Temperature will DEFINITELY cause it to take longer, it's a chemical reaction. Don't know that I'd recommend using a heat gun, you may evaporate the M.E.K. which is it's main component and that may be more hazardous than simply waiting till the temp is up. Are you working in a garage?

While the stripper wheels take a while, their advantage is that there is no goopy stripper that you have to be careful of accidentally getting it on your skin.

But...patience....don't rush it and everything will come together well.

FWIW

E

BTW if you do get the stripper on your skin use clean water to rinse if off asap....

Jasco is a brand name, Aircraft Remover Stripper is a product name for the stuff made by Klean Strip. Both of these should work well.

Are you working in a garage?

While the stripper wheels take a while, their advantage is that there is no goopy stripper that you have to be careful of accidentally getting it on your skin.

But...patience....don't rush it and everything will come together well.

FWIW

E

Thanks for the words of wisdom. The stripper I bought today was Kleen Strip and the guy at Home Depot told me it was their industrial strength. After trying it in the spare tire well and waiting about 15 minutes, I read the directions...(duh, Im a man afterall)...it stated works best between 65 and 85 degrees. I am in a garage, have a heater going but it only warms up enough to take the bite out...maybe 50.

I was thinking of going and getting a heat gun tomorrow and trying it just for the helluva it. The stripper wheel works great, but is fatiguing to work with after awhile. I cant get into all the little nooks with it and am thinking I might have better luck with the heat gun in the tight places.

I will get it one way or another.