Can someone direct me to the "instructions" on using dry ice? I assume it involves spreading dry ice pellets or popcorn over the area to be stripped, but don't want to "arse-u-me" anything where my z is concerned.

I appreciate the help.

al

Can someone direct me to the "instructions" on using dry ice? I assume it involves spreading dry ice pellets or popcorn over the area to be stripped' date=' but don't want to "arse-u-me" anything where my z is concerned.

[/quote']

If you search the forums here for "dry ice" you'll find a lot of hits. This one starts out with a good explanation:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16546

Can someone direct me to the instructions for using dry ice...or is it as simple as it sounds? Either way, I don't want to "arse-u-me" anything (is there an echo in here?).

Thanks,

al

Can someone deirct me to the instructions, article, whatever, for using dry ice to remove undercarpet padding. I don't want to "arse-u-me" anything. Thanks,

al

ps-where's the "confused" icon?

Can someone deirct me to the instructions' date=' article, whatever, for using dry ice to remove undercarpet padding. I don't want to "arse-u-me" anything. Thanks,

al

ps-where's the "confused" icon?[/quote']

Al,

Its actually very simple, or at least in my case it was. I am lucky enough to have Dry Ice at my jobsite, we use it to pack refigerated and frozen items for delivery. I grabbed about 6 pieces about 8" X12". I laid them on the floors first and after about 10 minutes, went back with a putty knife and started scraping. It cam up, but slow and hard. I then took a wood chisel that is about 1/2" across and putting the tip down on top of the material, whacked it once and a big piece broke off clean. I continued this while putting the dry ice on the tranny tunnel, letting it freeze up while I whacked away, no pun intended

The whole car took about an hour and it was a very clean removal, see pics on page one. I did screw up though, I have a '77 with the raised rear floor and had not removed the masonite. The next day I took that out and there was more of the tar matting in the rear. It was pretty cold in my garage so I took the chisel and smack, it broke off just as clean.

Much easier than the heat gun and scrape method and a lot less messy Im sure. The pieces go flying so cleanup was about 1/4 the time.

On a side note, after using a variety of methods, heat gun, sanding disc, 3M stripper wheel, airlplane stripper, I went out today and got a wire wheel to try. Attached it to my drill and tried it and talk about effortless. I wish I had tried this first. Light touch and the paint is gone.

Mezz, you don't ship out the trail bologna do you?

On a side note, after using a variety of methods, heat gun, sanding disc, 3M stripper wheel, airlplane stripper, I went out today and got a wire wheel to try. Attached it to my drill and tried it and talk about effortless. I wish I had tried this first. Light touch and the paint is gone.

Oh, that's right. I recall using one of those as well. Sorry I didn't mention it sooner. It certainly is a tedious job which is why I remember trying so many different methods.

Jared, thanks for the words of encouragement. I bought this car as a "mild" project, refreshening the interior, paint job. I get discouraged thinking I bit off more than I can chew, but am determined to do it and do it correctly the first time. Hell, its been around 30 years, it will be here for awhile longer, no need to rush it. And yes, seems I've been taking ALOT of breaks lately!

Doug, I read your post on the car..I will ahve to say that your craftsmanship has grown considerably. I will keep plugging away, teaching myself as I go, with help from all the great people on here.

Ken, thanks for the tip on the plastic bag, I will give that a shot when I get into the little nooks that the stripper wheel wont go.

No problem man, keep up the hard work.

One good thing about living up north is the 15 deg days are great for removing the tar. A hammer and chisel works great. Now for the bad- It was so cold that the vinyl piece in the middle ripped while taking it out. The very bad- my floors are rusted.

If you are restoring a car right, you have to remove this tar. From underneath, my car looked great. I thought I could get by with patches. What I could not see was under the tar, which was perfectly flat when you lifted the carpet. All along the support weld, there are holes. This would have been missed had I not removed the tar.

Here's a pic of the drivers side, the other side is the same.

and whoever thought of it is a genius! I bought two six-pound blocks at my local ice store. 99 cents a pound. I used one block for the drivers side and one on the passenger side. I placed the blocks in between newspapers and gently smashed them into smal chunks. I then picked up the newspaper and sprinkled it carefully on the tar. Immediately you could hear the snap, crackle and pop of it releasing itself from the floor pan. About an hour later, it was all done and i just carefully peeled it off in LARGE chunks! no rust-through, just small amts of surface rust and they seem pretty solid. Next up: a nice coat of POR 15 after treatment.