Engine running extremely rough

[red_dog007]

It runs, but extremely bad. Popping noises from within the engine, carb closest to the cabin back fires and makes smoke in the engine bay. Black fuel smelling smoke out the rear.

Now, I put on a new electric dizzy which I believe I have wired correctly as I have not been corrected here on the forums.

Last night when we got everything hooked up and adjusting the dizzy, it seemed to be running fine, though it was a cold night. Got the dizzy lined up to the first marker on the pulley and called it good for now.

Today, with the dizzy lined up to the first marker on the pulley it is running hard and making all kinds of noises that are not good. Now, I wouldn't have thought that even on the first marker that it would be backfiring and what not.

The only change that I made from last night to today that involved electrical was with the old dizzy. The big resister thing undernieth the coil and ballast resistor I had removed. Last night is seemed to be running fine, though it was cold outside, but now, I removed that one resistor its a bit warmer outside and the thing runs and backfires like a 500lb fat man.

The only thing that the resistor that I had removed was connected to was the purple wire was connected to the coil holder as a ground wire I presume. No other wires were connected to anything.

Not really sure what to ask, so any advice would be great.

With how it is acting, and with everything pretty much lined up, all I can think of is that it is the module/wiring. Even if it was off a few degrees I wouldn't think that it would be running as hard as it is. Just a higher smooth idle or something.

[datsunrides]

Is the firing order correct?

[red_dog007]

1 starts closest to the cabine with 6 ending closest to the front of the car on the block and then 1 closest to the front of the car on the dizzy correct?

[Arne]

No, #1 cylinder is at the front of the engine nearest to the radiator, #6 is nearest the firewall.

[Nissanman]

Can't help with wire colours but here is a diagram of the solid state ignition system which may help: -

[red_dog007]

OMG........

Ummm........

I feel really stupid right now. I could have sworn that I had it the right way with marking stuff and what not.

*blushes*

So on the block, starting from the back nearest the cabin it goes 563241 and then I wire it up correctly to the dizzy?

[red_dog007]

So then TDC is done on the cylinder closest to the radiator.

Boy do I feel stupid. I get this far, done this much, learned a lot, and I mess up on the most simple thing.

Guess it happens to the best of us at some point.

[ktm]

"So on the block, starting from the back nearest the cabin it goes 563241 and then I wire it up correctly to the dizzy?"

Huh? Starting from the FRONT of the car, the nearest cylinder is #1, then #2, then #3, #4, #5, and finally #6.

The distributor is how you set your firing order. Starting from the FRONT of the car, the electrode CLOSEST to the radiator is #1, #5 is counterclockwise from #1, then #3, #6, #2 and finally #4.

"So then TDC is done on the cylinder closest to the radiator. "

Yes. Cylinders #1 and #6 are on the same stroke, just 180 degrees out from each other. When #1 is TDC on its compression stroke, #6 is on its intake stroke.

[red_dog007]

Ok, sweet. As I was working on it, my brothers mechanic friend came in. I must say, that in those 10 minutes, I learned more then I have all week. He helped everything get in order.

Though, he is thinking that it is 180 degrees out as I can not advance the timing anymore.

When researching, the dizzys arm on the brace always points to the radiator in photos that I have seen. Plus this was the only way that I was able to put it on. Doing a 180, it would not allow me to drop the dizzy in. But the thing is, I am still I believe 10 degrees out. On the pulley there is 5 notches, and the furthest that I can get it to is the 3rd notch I believe. Does this normally happen on this dizzy swap?

I will problably just leave it how it is. A touch higher idle I won't mind. Though, does it being out more then 5 degrees affect performance up high in a negative way?

All he was saying that once it gets up to temp, the only thing that he would worry about is when I turn the car off, the engine might keep on running.

[barth4567]

Ok, sweet. As I was working on it, my brothers mechanic friend came in. I must say, that in those 10 minutes, I learned more then I have all week. He helped everything get in order.

Though, he is thinking that it is 180 degrees out as I can not advance the timing anymore.

When researching, the dizzys arm on the brace always points to the radiator in photos that I have seen. Plus this was the only way that I was able to put it on. Doing a 180, it would not allow me to drop the dizzy in. But the thing is, I am still I believe 10 degrees out. On the pulley there is 5 notches, and the furthest that I can get it to is the 3rd notch I believe. Does this normally happen on this dizzy swap?

I will problably just leave it how it is. A touch higher idle I won't mind. Though, does it being out more then 5 degrees affect performance up high in a negative way?

All he was saying that once it gets up to temp, the only thing that he would worry about is when I turn the car off, the engine might keep on running.

Just changed mine over to electronic a couple of weeks ago.Beandip and Jetjoc240 helped me. Running around 10 to 11 degrees advance and idles at 1000 RPM. To me it runs perfect. And it has not done anything but help the car run better. It runs very well up high. Trust me on that one. I did run one tank of regular just to see what would happen and it did try to diesel on me several times when shutting off. Went back to Premium and problem is solved. Just my 2 cents worth. John

[beandip]

007, just a tip. When discussing firing order ALWAYS #1 is the one at the front of the engine. On a inline Z engine. Now you know the firing order , was given to you earlier. Remove the spark plug from #1 . remove the coil wire , the large one, from the coil. put your finger over the spark plug hole and have some one turn the engine over. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke air will be felt coming out of the plug hole. When the piston is at the top of its stroke on the compression stroke , THEN the first mark on the pulley should match the pointer. If you align the pointer to the mark on the pulley on any of the other 3 strokes the timing will not be correct and the engine will be out of time. Running a engine out of time can and will damage it. So close doesnt count. You will find it easier if you remove all the plugs and have someone just ''tap'' the starter a little at a time so you can feel when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. If you look in the plug hole with a light you can see the top of the piston. With the car in gear you can shove the car a little to have the piston right at the top of the stroke and stop. Look then at the pointer and the timing mark. They will be aligned on the compression stroke. Now pull the cap off the dist and see where the rotor is pointing . It should be pointing to where #1 wire connects to the cap . You have either miss wired the cap with the wires . Or set the dist in place with the rotor facing the wrong direction . With the engine timed 180* out the engine will not run only backfire.

[red_dog007]

I will have to double check everything, but everything seems to be running back to normal. I seem to be about 10 degrees out or so instead of 5 but will make sure to recheck everything.

The thing purrs just like it used to, and it no where near what it was sounding like earlier.