How much for paint

[Roundy]

Well, this gives me plenty to chew on. The body is really straight. So I just go out and get some quotes. Thanks

[Bruce Palmer]

Don't forget to have any and all shops to budget in any rust repair work. Spending money on paint over hidden rust (which northwest cars are known for) will only make you soggy and hard to light when those all too common rust blisters start raising that paint. Any body out ther want to give me an amen??

The painter at our shop is getting all to good at replacing doglegs and taillight panels on "rust free" Z's. He's getting very adept at buidling in rust contingencies into his "estimates".......

[beandip]

Bkelly, I second Palmer on this one. I did my Z in my own home garage. The paint job turned out good. Not perfect but good. The paint , which I bought the best PPG paint, cost right around $700.00. This includes the primer and clear. and related supplies. If you want a 20 footer Mako will do. Until the rust blisters though. Otherwise find a shop that does Show/Hot Rods. there out there . I pulled my engine and all the glass and interior, dash included as well as all the wiring. It took me about 2 weeks to prep for paint . Not including the body work. These were 8 hrs + days. Lots of wet sanding. To get a vary nice paint job takes time and talent. EScanlon shot my car and he did a great job. If we had a real booth the car would have come out a 10+ . I think she is a 8 3/4 now. So depending on your expectations, and be clear to the shop doing the job, the cost will vary. The more you do to get the car ready the more you will save. Don't do any primer because the painters will just have to sand it off , if they are going to guarantee the job. Personally I like the engine bay to be the same finish as the body. This calls for the engine to come out. And all the stuff to be removed that is bolted and clipped in there. The glass should also come out , you most likely need new rubber any way. I think my job including body and paint complete would have cost at least $8,000.00. Most likely more. I just don't have that kind of money, so I did it my self. took almost 3 years. So choose wisely. Gary:rambo:

[Z train]

Roundy-as other have mentioned or alluded to the biggest part of a good paint job is the prep work.Good bodymen aren't always good painters.Point being-if you give MAACO,Sheib,1 Day a good"canvas" to start with,you can get good work from them.I've seen(stereo) typical MAACO paint jobs and i've seen some that MAACO would have been my last guess as to who squirted the car.

[JimmyZ]

Just a question Roundy.. Are you able or willing to do any of the prep or are you just going to give the paint shop the keys and tell them "have at it"??

You can save a buttload of money doing your own prep. It's not that difficult to learn either. The cost of equipping your garage with the right tools isn't so bad if you shop around. (Plus you have a nice tool collection at the end)

Here's a page I made which outlines some things you might want to know. I'm just an ameteur but I've done a few vehicles and had decent results.

http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html

Jim

[Kerrigan]

My job included, door/trunk jambs, removal of glass, refitted with new rubber everywhere, bodywork, rust repair (fitting in new metal), new logos and trim, and restoring back to #306 silver.

$3,700

Initial quote was for $3,300.

But, everyone else will tell you that it will depend on the extent of work and time. I am happy with my job, but it was not a complete tear-down. I suppose location may be a factor too. Good luck!

YOU GOT IT GOOD!!

Same work here in Portland Oregon just cost $6,000 ... and another $2k in my own parts ... for the same stuff ... geeeeeze.

[AndysPlit]

Tell me about it! It pays to shop around. They took about 5 months to get her out of the shop. Maybe the fact that I told them not to rush it worked in my favor...........or not.

[Bart Hoedemaker]

My friends 70 Charger is getting sprayed this week.$1700.00 is materials ALONE.

Charger my second dream car, only the 68 model :rambo:

[Walter Moore]

For the truly cheap paint you could try:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20410&highlight=Roller+paint

I ended up painting mine with a brush, and wet sanding, then buffing it for months. It looks like it was painted a long time ago, and has seen better days.

I used Valspar tractor paint. Originally I used about 2 1/2 gallons, and now I need to buy some more to touch-up some areas that I missed, or buffed too thin.

It was way too much work, and really the result is only acceptable to me because I was trying to build a fun driver, not something that will win car shows.

On the other hand, I dropped a sharp metal tool on the fender last fall and scratched the paint. The repair was quick and easy. I just filled the scratch with paint, let it cure for a week, then buffed it out. It looks like scratch was never there.

[RHChew]

Mine was done by a restoration guy who had to strip 5 layers of paint off my Z as I went through "color phases". Original color was 72 yellow. Then I went to 73 Dodge Lime Green. Then to burgundy, and finally stripped to color sanded Dietzler White.

The last job ran $3500 in LA by a guy has since retired.

[Diseazd]

I agree with many here.

Maaco is pretty much garbage. If you take them a stripped and masked car with all prep work done, they may do a decent job. A good paint job is going to cost at least $4k+ IMO. Frame shops and resto shops will do the best work. I would argue that a really high quality job if there is a fair amount of body and rust work needed will run closer to $10k.

With paint work, you really do get what you pay for.

I painted a GTI myself with PPG and it was $1k for materials.

The key to any paintjob is pre and post work.

[Zak's Z]

My Z is in now getting prepped and painted, still dont have a final cost/estimate. But I saved at least $2k off the price by stripping it myself. There were 4 colors on it, and when I got down to bare metal there were a few spots I touched up with braze. I also had to get a new door, hood, and rear valence. I put a whole summer into just stripping it, and Im sure Ill get a much better result because I took the time to get every bit of paint off everywhere.

I would say conservatively 200 hours went into it. Although Im just a hacker at it, and a shop would have been alot quicker and more efficient. The body shop guy even said he wouldnt have been able to get it done unless it was bare. He said he wouldnt have touched it and I couldnt have afforded it (if I wanted a good job, not just a sanding and repainting).

Just my 2 cents from what little experience I have.