Jump to content
Email logins are now active ×

IGNORED

Need help on Engine Rubuild please.


WingZr0

Recommended Posts

OK OK ,! Point Well Taking LOL

I was hoping for a "Class Fighter", nothing that would take on a

GT-R out the gate but a nice Street fighter against comparible others.

Figured since I was in the process of rebuilding the enigine I might as well

put some modded stuff in while at it.

To at least save another teardown.

But CAL Smog Argh___.gif, and the need for more upgrades in other areas, it is best

for me to leave the cam alone for now and upgrade that which 'ill make the

car run better like Oil Pump and such.

Keep it mostly stock to pass smog first then rehabilatate from there once I know

more about what I'm working with.

(And have Wayyyy more money and another car to boot cause

walking's getting old. runinafireb.gif "AHHHH, MY FEET ! ")

Ohh decisions decisions

~Z~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sometimes it is good to remind ourselves that the Nissan designers did a fairly good job when they designed the L-series engines in the first place. Sure, there is a lot that can be done after-the-fact, but Stephen's thoughts are well worth considering.... small gains with larger expenditures. When I first got my last 240 I couldn't wait to put headers on it. After much research, they sit in waiting.... the gains are minimal unless "other" things are done in addition. And those "other" things lead to yet other things that lead to.... you get the picture. Try the stock version if you are just diving in to these cars - you may be pleasantly surprised.

Yah's words won't fall on def ears here,

my wallet ain't that DEEP ^_^

~Z~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 years ago I wouldn't even take the time to read this.

30 years ago I wouldn't have had those thoughts. Let's see....that would be 1978: most of my time was spent fixing the things that broke on my modded 1600 roadster or my modded 66 Mustang. I hadn't yet come to the conclusion to have a stock driver along with my modded car(s). I was also 27 at the time so I do understand.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Guys ^_^

Glade to be back!

been gone for awhile (life 'n crap)

and happy to see the site up again ( GO MIKE ! ) :)

Thanks for the rebuild parts list help guys, it's all in check ~_^

Made some last time check ups on Ruby to decide the final

route to take with her and need one last round of advice from

you knowledgeable folks to see if my diagnosing abilites are on par.

(or no where near right ^_^)

Well I think I might drop the new rebuilt head on myself maybe and

came across a person on HybridZ with same year Z with same problems.

Link to thread ->http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123691

I posted some replies and thought I get your opinions on

this which I posted.

"Well my Question is are the head gaskets for the

240Z / 260Z different from the 280Z ?

Assuming they ordered a complet but wrong engine gasket kit.

My compression is 150 across the board and with a teaspoon of oil it is

170-175.

My NGK plugs have oil on them and there also appears to be oil in

the radiator which looks like Brown Chocolate Swirls,

white smoke blows also and she hesitates as if the fuel is being

blocked by back preasure in the lines.

Number 4 Fuel Injector not working aswell, changed Injector and

spark plugs and now #4 pings like it's misfiring making the engine

"tilt" to one side when it pings.

I think it may have a stuck valve from needing a

valve adjustment though BTW.

Not 100% sure if it's #4 pinging as I shut her off before pulling

the injector conector or plug wire to see if engine idle changed,

figured best to turn off before blowing something.

Any help would be apriciated on the head gasket though

please cause I think it might be blown,

among other "dominoed" problems from the overheating .

~Z~

"

BTW I changed new NGK on number 4 also and still pings but less so after

unpluging the Fuel Injector conector.

Whats that about? :ermm:

Well I'm thinking with the new head gasket and rebuilt head I should

be alright.

I asssum the rings are OK by doing the compression test oil trick, am I right?

If thats the case and this is as simple as I think it sounds and

something I can fix on my own that'd be cool then dropping on a

new head will get her back on the road in 2 days tops.

Unless I should just put her in the shop as planed.

~Z~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I Hope you are kidding about the swirls in the water. If you have oil in the coolant ,likely you have coolant in the oil. The head must come back off and drain the fluids. Hopefully you haven't damaged anything. You said a stuck valve? if a valve and piston collide you likely have a bent valve and maybe a damaged piston. Hopefully the valve guide and seals are OK. I am sorry to hear of your problem. Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I Hope you are kidding about the swirls in the water. If you have oil in the coolant ,likely you have coolant in the oil. The head must come back off and drain the fluids. Hopefully you haven't damaged anything. You said a stuck valve? if a valve and piston collide you likely have a bent valve and maybe a damaged piston. Hopefully the valve guide and seals are OK. I am sorry to hear of your problem. Gary

Yeah, Thyanx Gary,

Pretty much I'm thinking the same thing.

The "pinging" only started around last week, figured it was a valve by the

timing it happens.

Seems to follow the cycle of the engine but skips a beat, stops for awhile,

then comes back for a second. (wash rinse repeat).

Only driven her maybe 50 miles to the Mech and AATCO since the

Exhaust gasket change, but the valve train is falling further out of wack as

evidenced by the oil problem.

Since finding the coolant oil issue and the fact she's was still running rough I

parked her and only start her on occasion to learn more about the car and to

access what I think the problem / problems are and compare to what I

actually find once I take her apart.

If she sits for awhile, like a week,

White Smoke, Steam, oil burning for couple minutes when started.

I mean you should've seen the NGK's, Coverd in oil, some of them where

burnt charcoal gray.

Good news is the engine's not completly codded out.

So... hopefully what I'm thinking here is total engine rebuild may not be

needed saving me some $dough along with faster return to road time :)

But like they say, you never know untill you open her up and find that,

"OhhhhhHHHH MyyyyYYYY..... :eek: "

Followed by HUGE Bill :cheeky:

~Z~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 184 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.