Fusible Link for a 240 Z

[EScanlon]

Run it under some hot water, that will soften the rubber up enough that you can then rotate motor and rubber sleeve out from the "fingers" of the bottle. Once it's out, you may have to heat it up again, but the motor will also slide out of the rubber.

If you look through your local auto parts shop, you may find one that has the right diameter ... although length and nozzle placement may differ. But that's not important as long as you don't double or triple the length, and nozzle placement just means you'll have to re-route your tubing.

Re-mounting the new motor with rubber sleeve should be fairly easy now that the rubber has been softened and will be evident by the time you remove the old one. Just look at the alignment of the rubber before you remove it.

Wiring is just as simple since they're just 12v motors, make sure you match the positive lead and you're fine. If you want to test it, that's fine, worst case you'll be blowing bubbles into the reservoir.

One final note on removing the old motor, don't pull too hard on the tubing attached to the bottle, you CAN break off the nozzle tip at the bottle and you'll have ruined it. It can be repaired, but it's a major headache to do so properly and do it without leaking. Your best bet is to simply cut off the old hose which will have undoubtedly hardened to near concrete by now.

2¢

E

[DeesZ]

For what it;s worth on both topics:

For the Fusible link, be confident that the one Banzai provides is good quality and a perfect replacement, I have used one for several years (on my '72), and keep a spare on hand in case of a problem. Mike will also get them to you quickly.

For the washer pump, before the effort of removing and replacing, check to assure that you have power to the pump. If so, try gently whacking it with a screwdriver handle or something similar. Then have someone power it up and tap it again. I've had about 4 or 5 seized ones and gotten all but one to work that way. You've got nothing to loose, and the odds are good that it may again work for you without any great effort.

[ConchZ]

I called Banzai. They have raised their prices from $5 to $15 for their link. He says that since Nissan doesn't sell them, he has to make them. I ordered two, so I'd have a spare. However, I'm keeping my home-made link just in case I ever need it again. I'm using a 30 amp fuse in it, and it hasn't blown yet.

Interestingly, they no longer sell the washer bottle/pump combo. He suggested I follow your advice and just buy a generic one and make it work. I went to Advance auto, and asked to see their pumps. The guy asked me what car it was for, and wow...they actually can order them. We'll see if it comes in. It costs $33.

Thanks for your suggestions and help!

[ConchZ]

Thought I'd tell everyone about my experience using the maxi-blade fuses to replace the fusible link on my 73. I started with a 20 amp fuse, but it blew. A 30 amp fuse didn't blow, at least at first. After accidentally running the battery down, I jumped the car and it ran fine. Fine until I turned on the headlights, that is. It blew out immediately. Here's my theory....

From the wiring diagram, the only way the battery is going to get charged is through this fusible link. If its low, its going to draw a lot of current through the link to charge the battery. I found out the hard way that if the link blows, the car will continue running, but will not charge the battery. Having hooked my headlights to the battery via Zs-ondabrain's headlight harness upgrade, the headlights began drawing power from the battery, thereby discharging it while I unknowingly drove. Once I turned off the car, I had no electrical power, and couldn't jump start it, classic fusible link burnt out symptoms. I first replaced the link, but then found my battery was dead. Why oh why was it dead, I wondered. I jump started it, drove it a while and then noticed the link blew again. You can tell because your amp meter stops working. The headlights then dimmed, as they were running off the nearly dead battery.

So, 30 amps isn't a big enough fuse if the battery is low and its drawing a charge. I switched to 40 amps, and problem is solved. From the wiring diagram, there's at least three 20 amp circuits that branch off of this fusible link, so I don't think 40 amps is too big. I turned on everything but the rear defroster, which isn't yet hooked up, and it didn't blow the 40 amp fuse. So, its good for now. Will post again if the 40 amp blows when I get the defroster hooked up again.

Matt

[SteveJ]

Thought I'd tell everyone about my experience using the maxi-blade fuses to replace the fusible link on my 73. I started with a 20 amp fuse, but it blew. A 30 amp fuse didn't blow, at least at first. After accidentally running the battery down, I jumped the car and it ran fine. Fine until I turned on the headlights, that is. It blew out immediately. Here's my theory....

From the wiring diagram, the only way the battery is going to get charged is through this fusible link. If its low, its going to draw a lot of current through the link to charge the battery. I found out the hard way that if the link blows, the car will continue running, but will not charge the battery. Having hooked my headlights to the battery via Zs-ondabrain's headlight harness upgrade, the headlights began drawing power from the battery, thereby discharging it while I unknowingly drove. Once I turned off the car, I had no electrical power, and couldn't jump start it, classic fusible link burnt out symptoms. I first replaced the link, but then found my battery was dead. Why oh why was it dead, I wondered. I jump started it, drove it a while and then noticed the link blew again. You can tell because your amp meter stops working. The headlights then dimmed, as they were running off the nearly dead battery.

So, 30 amps isn't a big enough fuse if the battery is low and its drawing a charge. I switched to 40 amps, and problem is solved. From the wiring diagram, there's at least three 20 amp circuits that branch off of this fusible link, so I don't think 40 amps is too big. I turned on everything but the rear defroster, which isn't yet hooked up, and it didn't blow the 40 amp fuse. So, its good for now. Will post again if the 40 amp blows when I get the defroster hooked up again.

Matt

I don't claim to be an expert on fusible links, but according to this site, a black fusible link should be good up to 80A. Granted, length is a factor in capacity, but I don't think the 240Z fusible link is that long. You may want to go to a 60A fuse.

[ConchZ]

I don't claim to be an expert on fusible links, but according to this site, a black fusible link should be good up to 80A. Granted, length is a factor in capacity, but I don't think the 240Z fusible link is that long. You may want to go to a 60A fuse.

I did look at that site, and considered going with 60 amps. However, since the original alternator only puts out like 40 amps, I figure it should never exceed that. I may someday upgrade the alternator, in which case I may need a bigger fuse. I kinda like the old external mechanical voltage regulator that is necessary with the old alternator, as I get to watch the amp meter jiggle and wiggle. It reminds you that you are in an old car. Passengers seem to think that's neat, too.

[biddljj]

Could a fusible link describe the following ?

1972 240Z has been in the body shop for the last few months.... Body work done

Go to start the car and nothing... no dash lights, no starter

Charged the battery (battery is less than a year old)... Car started fine, Ran fine

Battery dead again the next morning.... Charge a bit.... Start Car... Load onto trailer

Car is dead again at the paint shop

Jump starts car fine.... Ameter reads charing when the car is running

Not just a Z - zdisease

[Arne]

Could a fusible link describe the following ?

No. Fusible link is all or nothing. Won't repair itself temporarily after charging the battery.

1972 240Z has been in the body shop for the last few months.... Body work done

Go to start the car and nothing... no dash lights, no starter

Charged the battery (battery is less than a year old)... Car started fine, Ran fine

Battery dead again the next morning.... Charge a bit.... Start Car... Load onto trailer

Car is dead again at the paint shop

Jump starts car fine.... Ameter reads charing when the car is running

Sounds like a short somewhere in the wiring is draining the battery overnight.

[Carl Beck]

I'd guess you need to have a load test performed on that battery. Put it on a slow charger. After it is fully charged - take it somewhere that it can be put on a battery load tester. Sometimes batteries develop a dead short internally and that shows up on a load test.

It sounds like it is going dead to quickly for something in the car to be draining it - if there is something in the car draining it that quickly - I think you would smell it.

FWIW,

Carl B.

[biddljj]

I should have the car home from paint inside a week.

I'll do a check for dead shorts. I did notice that the accessory relay got hot

when the battery was being charged.

The car was healthy in March of this year when I drove it sans windshield on a blustery march day 10 miles to the body shop. Froze my face off.....

Thanks, Jay

Not just a Z - zdiseae