1974 260z 2+2

[Cutlass372]

Hey guys, I found a 2+2 around the corner from my house and went to check it out today. The Car is automatic so what actions would I have to take in switching that out? (2+2 uses different stuff then regular 260?). Also the front driver fender isnt attached at one of its mounting points so it wiggles alot when you pull on it. Paint is okish, some spots are chipped off and the rear quarter panel has bondo on it I believe. Interior seems mostly there and is in ok shape, could probably use a nice cleaning. The guy said he would take 300 for it which isn't a whole lot of money.. He said the car runs and drives but the carbs are an issue ( I think it has stock carbs). I would probably just swap on som SU's anyway and call it a day. This car would be my daily driver to and from school and to cruise around. You think its worth picking up or should I wait it out and look for a 2 seater. How much worse is the 2+2 at performing then the 2 seater, because im looking for a car that I could occasionally track. Overall im looking for a crazy handler that i can drive everyday and fix up along the way. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Elliot.

[Six_Shooter]

The shorter wheelbase of the 2 seater would corner a little better, but I'm not sure it would be enough to notice. Someone that has driven both would be able to tell you better.

The parts are the same as far as swappping trannies. From what I've found the only difference in the driveline between a 2 seater and a 2+2 is the length of the driveshaft.

If you were looking at drag racing, the longer heel base of the 2+2 would make it easier to install an NHRA legal cage, without looking out of place. Main hoop rules make this difficult. The longer wheelbase would also be more stable.

With the 2+2 you'd be able to bring more than one friend along to outings.

[Cutlass372]

Yeah the rear seats are nice to have, but with them it also sacrifices the beautiful rear lines of the car. Also, I would be looking more into road racing then drag racing. I would maybe at one point install coilovers as money allowed but a set of stiffer springs and struts would suffice for some time. l28ET swap could also be something that I might be looking into.

[Darrel]

Depending on how deep you dig into the real condition of the car, you may be ahead with the rear end. It should have an r-200 3.36 rearend which is preferable for hybridz projects.

As far as the lines of the car, at least it isn't a 280zx 2+2 :-D

Being from PA, I am sure there is a lot of bondo and paint hiding a lot of stuff(rust, rust and more rust).

[Exdamyankee]

Depending on how deep you dig into the real condition of the car, you may be ahead with the rear end. It should have an r-200 3.36 rearend which is preferable for hybridz projects.

Actually the stock rearend for a '74 2+2 Auto is an R180 3.545, I have the identical car :squareeye

Heck Elliot, if it looks decent and runs even fair, I'd buy it for 300. Swapping the carbs is easy, just remember you'll need to change out the skinny carb spacers for the thicker, 240 style. That was my only goof when I swapped out my flattops for roundtops and couldn't get the linkage to fit. :stupid:

I just dropped the car almost 2" with a Tokico spring/HP strut package ($350 from jdmwerks on EBay) and the handling is super! Better highway ride than the 2-zeater too.

I've got a year's worth of time and a bunch of money invested in mine, and I can say that I have ZERO regrets about going 2+2.

As for "ruining the lines" of the Z, I think the 2+2 (like the Jag XKE 2+2) has its own style, and set up right it gives away nothing to the coupe. See my gallery for some pics (taken before the 2" drop)http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=14082&cat=500

[sleepyzzz]

300 is a steal if that car isn't a rust bucket, and runs. i would look at all of the usuall suspect places for rust, and if the car is clean, try not to break your wrist reaching for your wallett.