Dash Wire Harnesses - Differences?

[geezer]

I may be able to help you piece this jigsaw together. I have a 10/70 engine harness and corresponding dash harness out of the car at my disposal for comparison purposes if needed. In order for us to stay on the same page and speaking the same language, I suggest using the illustrations Enrique provided. Each connector should be assigned a number. In turn each of the cavities in each connector should be numbered. Both male & female connectors have to be a mirror image but the corresponding wire colors may not match and should be noted. It can get confusing, but by taking it one connector at a time, you will be able to wittle it down. After you have mated as many of these connectors as possible by using whatever connectors you have at your disposal, it will be nessesary to buy some generic ones to replace the ones you are missing. Cross that bridge when you come to it. You can go to just about any Japanese motorcycle repair shop and buy period correct looking connectors and terminals to replace the ones you can't match up. I don't know if you have any experience working on connectors & terminals. If you don't I can walk you through the methods & tools needed bit. The first thing you need to determine is the connections that you cannot make and label/circle them on Enriques illustration that shows the connectors. Then we can determine if you can come up with any connectors to complete a "set" by using leftovers that can be removed from the old harness and used on the replacement harness. Do you have the tools for removing the terminals from the connectors? I wanted to ask that before damage occurs from incorrect removal. Hopefully most of the terminals will be left on the wires and reused and only the connectors changed where need be.

[geezer]

Just a few pics to illustrate what you need to do this job.

1-Terminal removal tools. These are used to depress & release the barbs on the terminals in the connectors. There are dozens of different ones. I haven't looked yet but the ones you need will be basic.

2-Business end of my Essex Wire crimper ( used it for 35 years ).

3-My son's new crimp tool

4-Illustration of the crimps used.

5-One of the "kits" I have on hand, that includes terminals & connectors (male & female pieces assembled in pic). Not the same as you would use, but just an example of whats available at a reasonable price.

[Duffman]

Thanks, Geezer, I appreciate your assistance! I just got back this evening from a quick trip to Texas, will tackle this tomorrow and let you know what I find (pics, etc).

[Duffman]

Well, I spent some time evaluating the diagrams that E sent and determined that they are a later model than mine. I found I have different colors and different numbers of connectors from the dash harness to the fuseblock and to the engine harness. The wire diagrams are identical to the replacement harness I got from Arne. I started at the ignition and connected most of the wires, then got to the fuseblock and there were many that didn't match up in color or connector. By the time I got to the engine and body harness connections, it wasn't even close! I believe that the best bet is to patch up my old harness or acquire a better replacement harness from the earliest series 1 Z!

Thanks, E and Ron, for your assistance!

[Duffman]

Anyone wanting to sell an early 1970 original wire harness? The photo below shows the correct connections to the body and engine harness from my original dash harness.

thanks!

[geezer]

The easy way is to repair your original harness. I had some time today to follow some of the circuits and map out a plan. It can be done, but you would be fit to be tied by the time you finished. I have started drawing up a schematic of a different type that would make the job much easier. I'm going to finish it in my spare time and make it available to the early Z guys. It will contain all the information needed to make the transition from the earlier harness. There are 10 connector sets and 27 circuits. That's just connecting the engine harness. Each of these circuits would have to be read, connected and continuity tested and who knows what anomilies could pop up. The harnesses were changed for a reason(s), and I don't believe anyone knows those reasons. If you do, speak up. It may become obvious after tracking the 27 circuits. Your making the right decision, it is a big job even for a pro.