battery keeps dying

[EScanlon]

Dave's post about looking for possible causes and remedies to the problem is spot on.

As an alternative way for #4, since sometimes the spark can be very hard to see, I would suggest putting a small bulb in series with the Negative post. An 1156 or smaller, with the body of the base inside the battery clamp, and the solder ball resting on the battery will glow if there is any current flowing through the system. No glow...no current, or so small as to require a meter.

While using the Positive pole is also good, the problem with the Z's is that oftentimes, over the years, the battery gets replaced not with a reversed pole battery, which would have the Positive pole towards the engine and farthest from the firewall, but with a standard size 34 battery and a riser than the 24R size (IIRC) it should take. Reversed Pole batteries are often NOT stocked by smaller shops or service stations. As a result, due to the customer's insistence on a battery today (because theirs is bad) they opt for the standard battery with the poles inverted to the way the car should have them.

As a result, the Positive terminal ends up underneath the fender past the access flap door.

This may be the problem that the Sears mechanic ran into.

The salesperson may have sold the correct battery (24R) for the car but Austen's car may have had the battery cables already swapped for a STANDARD battery and NOT a REVERSED POLE Battery.

Or the other way around.

Austen does not mention if he was told that the correct (24R) battery was not available, or if the salesperson saw "Z" and "24R" and just sold that, because it was in stock, assuming that the car had NOT been changed. Or, that Austen or his Dad insisted on a Battery TODAY and not in 2-3 days time and received a 34 Standard and not a 24 Reversed.

In either case, the responsibility of putting in the battery with the pole's reversed does fall upon the mechanic.

But, as a side note, most chain type stores often must settle for people willing to work for minimum wage or just a bit over. Then each individual job gets timed. You don't think they would keep a mechanic that took an hour to replace a simple battery, do you? That job is probably down to minutes...15 would be my guess, because he's supposed to be moving efficiently and quickly.

The requirements for a mechanic working in the garage surely wouldn't include fluency in English. (I won't delve into the argument of "This is America--speak English", as that is a can of worms not suited for this forum.) But the requirements of the job are to complete as many jobs as possible in the LEAST amount of time.

While that does not excuse making the mistake, it is the reason most often given when people make mistakes..."Sorry, I was in a hurry...".

Austen's mechanic may have been the victim of a missed communication between the salesperson and the customer, or with the mechanic, and further compounded by the mechanic's assumption and urgency to complete the job.

That the mechanic couldn't explain himself to you is only because you stepped into the working area of the garage. There's a reason for the sign that says "Customer's NOT allowed in the service area." Too often they feel they're better mechanics than the ones working there.

FWIW

E

[an_corp09]

Thanks for all the help guys it actually ended up being a yet another bad alternator (yeah right out of the box) go figure.

[sblake01]

Thanks for all the help guys it actually ended up being a yet another bad alternator (yeah right out of the box) go figure.

Did you get it at Autozone, Pep Boys, or Kragen or one of the chain type auto parts stores? I've had enough problems with parts from those places in the past that I won't buy starters, alternators, or water pumps from them.

[an_corp09]

yeah i bought it at advance took it back and went to autozone and bought one to put in and it works quite well

[sblake01]

For the chain stores, I've had my best luck with Checker/Shucks/Kragen or I'll go to Nissan themselves. I purchased a fan clutch from Autozone; exchanged it twice, ultimately ended up having to get a refund. I purchased a water pump from Autozone; it squealed, exchanged it once, ended up having to get a refund and the same goes for the alternator I bought from them for my 810. I just don't trust them anymore for S30 parts. Whoever does the rebuilding for them has to improve their quality control.

[Mat M]

Steve,

In my area, all the parts places have the "garantee the lowest price or they will beat it" policies. I have found that I can save a few bucks playing their game. Have you tried going to autozone and the like for a price (since you don't plan on using them anyway) and taking it to Kragens?

[sblake01]

Kragen's prices are comparable if not better than Autozone's especially if you use the web price. I do play that game but Kragen's prices are ususlly lower to begin with.

[Blue Meanie]

Hey guys. Any particular battery you prefer? Looks like mine died during winter storage.

[EScanlon]

Try giving it a FULL charge before you declare it dead.

Beandip taught me this, most batteries when not in use will discharge somewhat. The rate will differ and some will discharge faster than others. Part of the problem is in the basic design of the battery which uses Sulfuric Acid and Lead Plates, they simply loose charge over time.

(more info: http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/hweb3.pdf and http://www.vonwentzel.net/Battery/00.Glossary/ )

But as far as batteries, I've always used the Sears Die-Hard. Granted I go in, buy it and install it myself, but still the Die-Hard.

FWIW

E

[Zs-ondabrain]

I won't use anything But an Interstate battery

Every one I've owned has been under rated. The last 60 month battery I bought from Interstate lasted over 9 years before it started showing any signs of weakness. Also keep in mind that, 1) I ran a big stereo in every car that this battery was in. 2) I also run 90/100 H4's, and 60 watt fog lights. 3) I also listen to the radio with the engine off, A LOT, and for long periods of time.

If you buy a Red top or Yellow top battery, keep in mind that the first time you run the battery dead, it'll never recover like a regular battery.

Dave.

[RogerZ]

interstare be the best in 25 years of using only had one bad one. and most of them went far beyond the 60 month period. if you buy a sears diehard you can be sure it will die hard about one day past that 60 months.

[V8-240Z]

The problem here does look like something is draining the battery. However there is another problem called sulfation that leads to early battery failure. This web page explains it and a device that can reverse it. www.geocities.com/yosemite/2358/e_electrical_tips/e04.html

Two months ago I bought a Battery Desulfator from www.wizbangplus.com/ they sell them on eBay for $31 shipping included, I also bought a 100 amp load tester for $17 shipping included from www.homier.com/detail.asp?SessionKey=IN93Elf%2btyY3MarPTEdyXBSOMES29P%2fdZpY31TgwGAhBvBwJ4Dmgq%2b1PY%2fYQnVjlB6llGm%2bxily9&dpt=&cat=&sku=01531 I have been using the desulfator on a 4 year old Schucks battery that lost nearly all its reserve capacity. At first the load tester dropped to 10.5 volts and was showing about 300 cold cranking amps. Now 1 month later it dropped to 11.75 volts and shows 1000 cold cranking amps.This is the same reading I get from the new battery that I have in the Z.

At first I thought this wizbangplus was a snake oil type of gimmick but after using it on 2 old batteries with the same results I will buy another and connect it permanently to the wifes S10 JIMMI.