Posted March 6, 200817 yr comment_239637 I needed to replace my front right steel brake line. It starts at the distribution block and follows the firewall down under the frame to the rubber brake line. After some trial and error I apparently got something right, cause I'm still alive. So I'll pass on a little info.First, I bought some 3/16 x 25ft steel lines and a 37 degree flaring tool , tube bender and cutter from Summit Racing. I made two mistakes:1) the steel tubing kept cracking while flaring 2) the 37 degree flare didn't hold the pressure.So i bought some 3/16 x 20ft Stainless Steel lines and a double 45 degree flaring tool from Summit. They cost more but not much.That solved my problem. the SS line was better and the 45 degree double flare gave the line enough flare to seal correctly. There is nothing to bending the lines, its fairly straight forward.Simple problem with a simple solution, but thats how we learn. I hope this can help someone. And maybe save a little money. :stupid: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/27275-if-you-need-a-little-steel-brake-line-advice/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 6, 200817 yr comment_239644 SS is notable for its ductility, which you've just ably demonstrated. Good write-up.Frank Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/27275-if-you-need-a-little-steel-brake-line-advice/#findComment-239644 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 6, 200817 yr comment_239649 3/16 brake line is fairly easy to bend regardless of whether it is stainless, or regular aluminumized steel. In fact if you are careful you can adjust the bend angles without a bender.For a real challenge, try to bend the 5/8 steel tubing for the fuel lines... that stuff is a royal pain. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/27275-if-you-need-a-little-steel-brake-line-advice/#findComment-239649 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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