Sealing engine gaskets: Timing Cover and Oil Pan

[RC7]

I'm putting the oil pan & timing cover back on today on my stock L24. I've read Humble's book as well as these & other forums and I am a little confused. I have the Nissan oil pan gasket as well as the Nissan timing cover gaskets, still in their Nissan packs.

On the oil pan I plan on using a thin line of the Permatex 2 on the oil pan side of the gasket & applying the cork gasket directly to the block. Regarding the torquing, I can't find the most proper pattern in which to and how much torque to apply when tightening the bolts. I was planning on going opposite sides with my hands until I get all of the bolts in. From what I've read, the oil pan bolts are to be torqued 5-7 lbs?

On the timing cover, my manual says with pictures to put dabs of sealant in specified spots, on the timing cover side I presume. But it's just drops & not a line. If I am to use a sealant, what type specifically? I think RTV here would be a no-no.

I want to avoid any leaks of course, but I want to do it right the first time too.

[Nissanman]

I think RTV here would be a no-no.

You are dead right there:finger:

DO NOT use RTV on an engine that is not designed for it.

It will squeeze out of the joint and create a heap of silicon worms which will migrate inside the engine and end up ANYWHERE:mad:

The recommended sealant is a non-hardening type.

I can't remember what number it is but Permatex make an excellent non-hardening sealer.

For the front cover, I usually paint around the water passage openings and right down the full length of the gasket on the inside/engine side of all the holes.

Do the engine surface, apply the gasket and paint the gasket surface before fitting the front cover.

The oil inside the cover is not under pressure but it may still weep past an unsealed gasket.

Similarly with the sump.

A thin smear of sealant on the block apply the gasket then another coat on the sump side of the gasket, again on the inside/engine side of the holes.

The beauty of the non-hardening stuff is that is relatively easy to remove the gasket at a later date if necessary.

For the fasteners, I just work my way from front to back, alternating sides, doing them up in 2 or 3 stages.

Never used a torque wrench, we are only talking "tight" as defined by a 6" ring spanner.

Watch the gasket as it will start to compress and if too tight it will squeeze out at the fastener: that is too tight.

You can't really overdo a paint on sealant like Permatex as far as where you use it, just don't use too much as to create a mess.

You can certainly overdo RTV and that will cause a dose of worms that you don't need:rolleyes: