Weasel73240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Share #1 Posted March 13, 2008 I'm getting ready to paint, and I have a fairly simple question. Is it possible to remove the mirror from the drivers side door without removing the window regulator and assembly? Maybe theres a trick I don't know about, but I can't seem to get to the mounting screws. Any hints?P.S. - Any yes, I searched first, couldn't find anything.:disappoin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRE-240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Share #2 Posted March 13, 2008 Yes, it's absolutely possible. You're going to need a swivel socket (13mm I think) and an extension. Pull the door panel, roll the window down, and you'll be able to get at the nut that holds the mirror on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtaylor Posted March 13, 2008 Share #3 Posted March 13, 2008 I just did that last weekend. What a PITA. Sometimes I am mechanically challenged, so perhaps there is a better way. I took the little yellow bus to mechanic school. There is only one nut that holds the mirror on. Even with a swivel on an extension I had trouble. I removed the regulator assembly and it made it much easier. I was able to put the extension and swivel through the smaller hole in the upper door panel. I used tape wrapped on my swivel to make it tighter to keep the correct angle so I could get the socket on the nut. I loosened the nut and it fell off together with the tension plate and ended up on the bottom of the door.On reinstalltion: There is a little plate that is welded horizontally inside the door up by the hole for the mirror. You will see it with a flashlight. The mirror has a tension plate that fits on under the nut securing the mirror. This plate makes it difficult to get the nut on. In order to hold that plate AND put on the nut you need some room. At least I did. Again I used tape wrapped on my swivel to make it tighter to keep the correct angle. I had to have the window all the way up cocked at an angle without the regulator on to reinstall.Then it took me awhile to figure out how to get the regulator back in. The key was to insure the top two roller goodies are in the tracks, then secure the regulator with the 4 screws. Last, install the little 3" track for the bottom roller goodie with the two screws. It took me awhile cause I kept trying to get all three roller goodies in at the same time. I also unscrewed the upright track on the front side of the door which made reinstallation easier. Good luck, I hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRE-240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Share #4 Posted March 13, 2008 Getting things to go back together is definitely more difficult than getting them apart. I fought with this for a while before coming up with a better solution. Randy is right about the plate inside the door that interferes with the mirror's baseplate...it's a real pain. What I did was take the screwdriver-style extension that came with my socket kit, put the swivel on that, and then put the nut inside the socket and then stacked the baseplate on top of that. I taped the plate to the nut (using masking tape, that held things together long enough for me to get the nut started onto the mirror), and then I was able to tighten everything down. You'll have to play with the angle a bit before you hit the sweet spot, but the good news is that you don't have to take the door apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtaylor Posted March 13, 2008 Share #5 Posted March 13, 2008 Brian, see what I mean about the little yellow bus? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel73240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share #6 Posted March 13, 2008 Thx for the tips guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted March 13, 2008 Share #7 Posted March 13, 2008 Since you're not planning on removing the door window pane, are you also not removing the quarter windows? What about the Windshield or Rear Window?While some of this non-removal can speed up a paint job, it also leaves an edge that must be masked off and if proper preparation isn't adhered to, your paint may start lifting at that edge. Not only that, but with time, the rubber edge may creep out of it's present position and expose the color below. Not too glaringly, IF the other color is the same as what you're spraying, but with different colors....With care, removal of those items can actually be a good thing. Masking off the interior isn't necessarily that much more difficult, and you won't have to worry about the paint line.FWIWE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRE-240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Share #8 Posted March 13, 2008 When my car was (very recently) painted, I removed the quarter windows, windshield, and rear window....but not the door windows.Enrique is right about paint lines. Depending on whether you're shooting a couple of panels or the entire car, of course, you should disassemble as much as you can. It will save you money and give you a better result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel73240Z Posted March 13, 2008 Author Share #9 Posted March 13, 2008 I'm painting the whole car over the original 110 Persimmon, and I'm doing all of the jambs first. I know that it would be best to remove all of the glass, but I want to drive this car this summer. I know, I'm impatient, but I've been waiting a long time for this car, and its going on the road in April, come hell or high water. Besides, all of the glass, rubber and weatherstripping is in excellent condition. In my past experience, once you start removing that stuff, it usually gets ruined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbane Posted March 13, 2008 Share #10 Posted March 13, 2008 ...While some of this non-removal can speed up a paint job, it also leaves an edge that must be masked off and if proper preparation isn't adhered to, your paint may start lifting at that edge. Not only that, but with time, the rubber edge may creep out of it's present position and expose the color below. Not too glaringly, IF the other color is the same as what you're spraying, but with different colors.... Here's an example of what may happen... If you are going to do it, you may as well do it right. It may be hard to see, but that red line on the stainless is indeed on the stainless. Very poor masking all around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EScanlon Posted March 14, 2008 Share #11 Posted March 14, 2008 Paul:I wasn't aware that you were planning on imitating the Earl Scheib $99 paint job. Zbane has already pointed out the biggest problem, hopefully you don't scratch any of your chrome or stainless in trying to sand that close to them, nor tear any of the rubber in applying or removing the masking tape.E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenZ Posted March 14, 2008 Share #12 Posted March 14, 2008 If you are going to do it, you may as well do it right.Can't agree more.I have recently had my whole car painted and I removed all the glass and I am really happy with the result, plus found some small rust spots under the rear hatch rubber that I could fix now before they spread. I did install new rubbers in both front and rear windows but that was because they were 30+ years old. I also paid a professional to reinstall the front and rear glass as I had to have a new front windscreen due to a wiper collapse and major scratch.It will only be one day to remove them all and a weekend to put them back. Warren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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