Need some advice about a 78 280z that has been sitting for 5 years

[Cxracer]

Tomorrow I am going to look at a 78 280z. The ad said that it was last smogged and registered in 2003 and was stored since then because it needed new brakes and the owner didn’t have the time or cash to deal with it.

I live in California so I’m hoping for no rust but what else should I be worried about with a car that has been sitting around for 5years?

[MikeW]

Fluids: Bad gasoline, coolant, oil, brake fluid, clutch hydraulic fluid, etc. Anything that's rubber like hoses for the above. The good news is if you do a search you'll see many good answers to this same question; many cars around here hadn't been cranked in more than 5 years.

[Ttiger]

I saw that one too! If it's been under some sort of cover (carport/garage) it may be OK. Calif weather is mild enough not to destroy parts that quickly. I would look in the usual places for rust.

About a month ago I bought a '73 240-Z that had been parked with a car cover on it for about 3 years. I towed it home, checked the fluids, replaced the battery and after a bit of cranking, it fired right up.

Good luck!

[Cxracer]

Fluids: Bad gasoline, coolant, oil, brake fluid, clutch hydraulic fluid, etc. Anything that's rubber like hoses for the above. The good news is if you do a search you'll see many good answers to this same question; many cars around here hadn't been cranked in more than 5 years.

Thanks Mike.

So it sounds like if I do pick up this car I should just start changing the fluids and checking anything rubber. That is pretty much what I thought but I wasn't sure if there was any particular problem to look for.

What should I do about bad gas before I try to start it up? Should I dump in some injector cleaner or fuel stabilizer and cross my fingers or is there something else that should be done?

The guy's ad said that it should run with a new battery. Should I try jump starting it to get a chance to listen to the engine (if it starts) or could this cause serious problems?

Is it better to inspect the car as best as I can in its current state and just hope that I can get it started one day?

[Cxracer]

I saw that one too! If it's been under some sort of cover (carport/garage) it may be OK. Calif weather is mild enough not to destroy parts that quickly. I would look in the usual places for rust.

About a month ago I bought a '73 240-Z that had been parked with a car cover on it for about 3 years. I towed it home, checked the fluids, replaced the battery and after a bit of cranking, it fired right up.

Good luck!

Thanks Ttiger,

I'm looking at this as a good project car for my wife. I don't think she will be wild about the color but if I can get it running reliably I wouldn't mind getting it painted (hopefully not to expensive since it's more about a fun car than a show car).

I am a little concerned about rust since it is near the shore but the price seems pretty reasonable if I can get it to run.

[Powderkeg]

Hope I'm not too late to chime in.

If you can, put new gas in and jump start it at the seller place.

You also stated the car hasn't been registered since 2003. Has the previous owner had it registered as non-operative? If he hasn't then someone will need to pay the registration fees since 2003.

Also will it pass smog? This is the seller's obligation.

If you do buy this get a tune-up. You may want to find out the condition of the Catalytic converter as this effects the emissions and can be one of the reason why a car may not pass smog.

I mention this because when I bought my 76 Z in 2002 from someone in the bay area the seller wasn't quite accurate about the condition of the car. For example if you do decide to buy this and the tags aren't current, and the vehicle isn't in any condition to be driven, towing companies, (at least AAA) won't tow a car with expired tags. Also make sure the person who is selling you is the person who has clear title (His name on the pink slip).

I really wanted the car I bought even though I should've walked away from the purchase! Fortunately everything worked out. So my point is: Don't do what I did!

As Mike suggested previously replace the fluids. Check for rust at the floorboards, tire well, under neath the wheel wells, the frame rails, battery well , behind the rear speaker panels. Check the bushings, condition of the tires (rubber does wear even though it may look ok).

If you do finally purchase this beast get a factory service manual from Courtesy Nissan in Texas or download one from carfiche,com. You might also get the DVD's from Ztherapy.com entitled: "Datsun 240Z- 280Z Tune-Up" and "Street Racing Suspensions". The suspension dvd shows you how to replace all the major bushings, shocks and struts on your Z.

Best of luck and let us know how things turn out!

Dave Ruiz

[Arne]

Before you try to start it, do a search here for a thread titled "waking the sleeping beast" which is full of advise on how to properly resurrect an engine that hasn't run in years. If you simply change the gas, hook up a new battery and crank it up, you could do enough damage to the engine (especially rings and bores) to require an engine tear down. This needs to be addressed systematically if you hope to not have to rebuild or replace the engine.

[Nota280]

Also will it pass smog? This is the seller's obligation.

Dave Ruiz

If this is the Z in question, consider the price and what you are going to do with it before bringing up the seller's obligation to smog it.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/619970902.html

The guy is offering it for $650.00. The law requiring the seller to smog is kind of B.S. in my opinion. He could easily have junked it and not have to deal with even posting it on craigslist.

[Ttiger]

If you take a 27mm socket and a ratchet, you should be able to turn the engine over by hand using the crank pulley bolt (just put the ratchet on it and try and turn it). If it will turn over a few times, you should be good to go to try and start it. Your other option is to pull the coil wire and crank it using the starter a couple of times. Check the oil level first.

I'm planning on making my '73 a fun car as you describe. I'm going to pull all the trim and lights off and take it to Macco for a decent, but not expensive paint job. If you take off all the trim and lights, they do a pretty good job.

[Cxracer]

I'm planning on making my '73 a fun car as you describe. I'm going to pull all the trim and lights off and take it to Macco for a decent, but not expensive paint job. If you take off all the trim and lights, they do a pretty good job.

I checked out the car and made an offer. I need to get a little more info about the reg etc. I know the first thing my wife will want to do is get it painted once it is running. What price do you think Macco will charge for a paint job as you describe above.

[zbane]

First - Don't get near the car with a starting battery.... until you have everything ready to actually start the car. Can't tell you how many people damage a perfectly good engine, simply because they get in a hurry - and want to see if it will crank over, let alone start. You don't want to wipe out a good cam, or scuff the rings/cylinders by forcing crud, that's built up from sitting for prolonged periods past the rings or running dry cam lobes over their rockers... So lets hope no one had dinked with the car... before you got it...

Did you get the hood open yet?...

Prior To Start-up:

1. As mentioned, I'd drain the gas tank and see what comes out. If it's full of rusty partials - drop the tank and have it boiled out (some radiator repair shops off that service). Plan on replacing the old rubber fuel lines as well as the vapor recovery lines that run into the passenger compartment. You will more than likely have to do this anyway - as the vapor recovery lines leak gasoline vapor into the passenger compartment - and it will give you headaches and drive you out of the car. Do it now and be done with it. It's not fun, takes some time - but you'll be glad you did it all at once....

2. As mentioned, replace all the fuel lines in the engine compartment.

3. No doubt you need to check the carb's for operation - the vacuum slides get stuck... pull them apart and clean them... The flat tops look odd - but they are pretty much the same as the earlier SU's.. as far a basic operation goes..

4. Might as well replace the upper and lower radiator hoses - you'll have to do that anyway - do it now before you loose the fresh coolant you put in later.

5. Pull the spark plugs and poor a couple ounces of ATF in the cylinders... let it sit over night.. poor a little more in the next day... then - see if you can rotate the crank pulley by hand... if you have a large Strap Wrench it helps... of course you'll remove the old fan belt first - as you have already bought a new one... (when you bought the new hoses, oil, filter, coolant)... If you can't rock the crank back and forth by hand - put the car in low gear and push the car forward/backward (air the tires up and it's easier to hand push!). The idea here is to break the cylinder rings loose, and get some oil between them and cylinder walls. The ATF is very high detergent and very thin... Once you break the cylinders loose by rocking the car - poor a bit more ATF in the cylinders and see if you can now rock the engine back and forth by hand...

6 - Now drain the old oil - replace with fresh oil and new filter...

8. Install new NGK BP6ES spark plugs

9. Install new starting battery... and make sure that the oil battery cables are in good shape and very clean at the terminals..

10. Remove the valve cover - and poor some clean oil over the cam lobes and rocker arm pads..replace the valve cover - (just check to be sure all the rockers are on/in-place..)

11. pull the wire from the coil - and crank the engine over rapidly - you should at least see the oil pressure gauge move... at least a little to indicate your getting oil pressure... replace the coil wire and crank it over - it will take a few seconds to get fuel though the new lines and into the carb.'s... USE THE CHOKE! (you almost always have to choke the old Z's to get them started when the engine is cold).

If it doesn't start - then you can start checking for Fuel at the Carb.'s - and Spark at the plugs etc...

From the picture - it looks like a car worth saving...

good luck,

Carl B.

Carl Beck

Clearwater, FL USA

http://ZHome.com

That should get you started...

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619

[Ttiger]

First of all, call DMV at 1-800-777-0133, keep pressing zero and you'll get a live body. Tell them you are looking at buying a used car and they will ask for the VIN or license. They can give you a very close estimate of costs.

Maaco has their "Presidential" paint job for $399, but they are offering it for $199 at Fremont and San Jose as a grand opening special. I'm going to take mine up there in the the next 2 weeks and see what I can find.