From the first post, the one fusible link bracket (the one that's not so obviously melted) looks like it might be reattached if you could Goop the metal bracket back on. GOOP is that good & strong! The other one looks too well gone.

Not to mention a whole LOT of scrubbing, rubber & vinyl treatments, some re-taping, relabeling and other maintenance. (cue "Bruce Almighty.")

thxZ

That one little black thing below/behind the glovebox is the tachometer resistor.

Yeah, I do have that on my 78. I was looking above the fusebox, lile he said, but those wires are located more behind the glovebox like you said and mine are tied pretty well so it was hard to see.

what's the average price of this harness? i might just get another one instead of trying to repair this one

About 100 billion dollars :lick:, but you could get it more cheaply by building a time machine, and going back to 1977 to get a new one, an hopefully about 50 dozen for the rest of us. That means new ones aren't available, but you might get a used one from a salvage yard or another owner with a parts car or cache.

It depends on what your goal for the car is. If you want to restore it to oem or stock condition, you'll have a tougher time getting 'good/new condition' parts. To make it just work again, you can splice in the same parts in 'OK condition' or put in the 'upgrade' parts. Either way, like Will says, try to keep the circuits the same as the manufacturer designed, so the car will be servicable later on.

I'm curious. How did you com up with the term "ghettoness " and/or what does it mean?

thxZ

I, for one, really don't want to see an explanation of that here. Just look at the pictures he posted and you'll agree that he has some major problems. Concentrate on that. Look up the term if you're curious.

and found some interesting stuff. just might have found the problem to what might have prompted the PO to straightwire the fuse. got another question on a connection too. lemme know if i'm making progress or if this is just something else that needs to be fixed

as for tomohawk, please don't post if you're going to be a sarcastic jackass

Hopefully this will answer some of your questions in the pictures:

Img-1962 (the first one on the Left)

The pic detail gets lost in the corrosion, but if it is a brass "sleeve" that the wires are inside of that is then crimped, then YES it is a factory connection. These were used instead of soldering. Clean them off with a soft wire (brass) brush then re-tape.

Img-1962 (Middle)

Green corrosion is common with brass/copper. Clean off with brass wire brush and re-tape. Liquid electrical tape is ok, but it takes hours to cure.

A White/Red wire DOES connect to the Alternator directly from the fuse box, it's the Secondary power feed to the extra circuits and wouldn't normally be the reason for not starting. (Ignition is on the Primary power feed, the White wire to the Fuse Box.) The two wires are probably one for the fuse box and the other for the Ammeter.

Img-1966 (Right hand)

This one I'll pass on. It may be for part of an A/C system, but I do not know for sure. I'll see if I can find my schematics later. What year car is this again?

E

Enrique, remember this car is a '77.

In the third picture, if that connector with the plastic plug is near the junction for the distributor (the blask plastic thing with the two nuts), then that's a diagnostic connector for an emmissions device and doesn't connect to anything else to worry about.

The last picture is of something I've been trying to find a definitive answer for years. I'ts called a 'check connector' in the wiring diagram. I have that on both my 78 280Z and my 79 810 but the 810 has four contacts instead of three. They are also capped. I've traced those wires but they don't lead me to any conclusions other that it might be some type of diagnostic port for some type of machine that Datsun service departments used back in the day. I don't know. Anyone?

....that's a diagnostic connector for an emmissions device.....

Where did that info come from? The reason I ask is because, like I said, I've traced those three wires and the WB goes to the BCCD cut solenoid and the speedometer, the LW goes to the right headlamp and the dome light(!), and B is a ground. What kind of device would use those connections?

I learned about the BCDD diagnostic connector from my wiring diagram, and it's in the FSM, emmisions controls section, pp. EC 6- . It shows how to test the system.

On my wiring diagram the B wire goes to gnd, the WB goes to the speedo, and the LW goes to the (dome light? ) (just a live power source,) but wouldn't an ignition circuit be better? The engineer probably couldn't find an ignition circut that wasn't already fully loaded. There's no reason to have power to that solenoid with the engine off, IMO. I'd rather replace the BVDD with a plate.