I've spent the last 2 days applying "eDead" brand sound deadener mats in the floors, tranny tunnel, and rear deck of my 78 Coupe.

Now it's time to do the doors. I've read all the posts in the archives, but still am unsure exactly how to proceed with this part of the job.

Several of you have said that you installed the mats to the "inside of the outer door panel." To me that means you had to cut the mats into small pieces and stick them onto the outer panel by squeezing your hands through the small holes of the inner door panel. Even then, there are areas of the outer panel that I don't see how you can possibly reach due to no holes within reach.

What am I missing here? Did you remove the complete window crank mechanism and window guide rails to complete this job?

Finallly, did you cover the inside door panel (the surface that the trim panel attaches to) with the mats as well?

Thanks in advance.

My material was flexible and could easily be bent/flexed to slide through the holes in the inner door. Almost all areas of the door are accessible through the inner access holes. Naturally, you have to remove the window mechanism and window to get to the inner surface of the doorskin.

Remember, the sound deadener does not need to occupy 100% of the surface area to be effective so don't feel like you did a poor job if you don't have it fully covered. I covered about 75% and have a satisfying "sportscar" sound level that still allows for normal-volume conversation.

It would be very tricky and ultimately of low yield to apply your sound material to the inner door next to the interior panel. Putting it on the outer surface of the inner door (a la the vapor shield) could cause fitment issues with your door panel.

Good luck!

I cut the sound deadening material into strips that would fit through the openings in the door. My glass and operating mechanism was out so it was easier. I covered most of the door panel but not all, about 80%. the door sounds solid when it is closed which is what I wanted. I also tried to fit some into the door jam but that is another story. I ended up spraying undercoating in there to help deaden the sound.

Bob M

be sure he surface on the inside of the skin is clean and free form flaking and dirt. I used a product called B-Quiet ultimate , it is a foil backed material that comes is a roll 12'' wide, it is flexible and is a peal and stick. I simply just slid it into the door and up as far as I could and pressed it firmly to the door skin. In a couple of cases I used a screwdriver and or a wooden spoon to reach where my hand couldn't. One more thing that also helps, there is a crash stiffener that runs across the middle of he door. Originally there was a foam installed there between the skin and the stiffener. Mine was long gone , rotted away. I used silicone sealer and put a fairly large bead along the top of the stiffener to attach it to the door skin. This will also help to stop the resonance vibration. that causes the drum effect. Gary

I just reached thru the holes and rubbed on 4) 3"x9" pieces in a square pattern (2 up and 2 down) Just make sure to "TAP" on the metal to find the noisiest parts of the door, then cover them with the mat.

Same thing for the inner door skin, just tap to find the noisy parts. Just remember that the more you add, the heavier the car gets.

Dave.

. I used silicone sealer and put a fairly large bead along the top of the stiffener to attach it to the door skin. This will also help to stop the resonance vibration. that causes the drum effect. Gary

Ok. Thanks for all the replies and tips. But beandip I gotta ask you: How did you run a bead of silicon sealer along the top edge of that reinforcement beam? I've been lookin' at that all afternoon and there is no way to squirt it in there with a caulk gun - just not enough clearance to get the caulk gun in there. Parts of it I'm pretty sure I can't even reach with my hands, particularly in the forward part of the door (I've removed the door window and regulator mechanism).

Ok. Thanks for all the replies and tips. But beandip I gotta ask you: How did you run a bead of silicon sealer along the top edge of that reinforcement beam? I've been lookin' at that all afternoon and there is no way to squirt it in there with a caulk gun - just not enough clearance to get the caulk gun in there. Parts of it I'm pretty sure I can't even reach with my hands, particularly in the forward part of the door (I've removed the door window and regulator mechanism).

Two ideas there:

Instead of using a caulk gun, get yourself a hand squeeze tube for about $3-4. If you find that you can't get your hand in certain areas, raid the kitchen and find yourself a spoon that you can modify (bend) to suit your needs. Apply silicon to the spoon and go from there.

Post pics as well.

Went out this afternoon and bought two squeeze tubes of silicone sealer. By squeezing my arm through the holes in the panel I was able to run a thick bead of sealer all along the top of the reinforcement beam. The only part I couldn't reach was about 6 inches at the extreme forward end of the door. Even got my son out to the garage and he couldn't reach that part either.

Thanks for all the advice!

Don't worry about the last 6 inches. As long as the initial run of metal is protected, you'll be ok. The whole idea behind the silicone is "Anti-vibration" just like using a small patch of dyno-mat on a large sheet of metal to slow the vibration and resinence of that metal.

Dave.