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280ZX Dizzy Swap Problems


MikeyZee

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I am installing the 280zx dizzy and e12-80 module in my son's car. I don;t know if I have something way off or what but I am getting no spark at all. Just a couple questions......Maybe I did something wrong.

The 280zx dizzy is mounted 180 degrees off of what the 72 240z dizzy was....Is that correct? The B goes to the + ignition source and the C goes to the - on the coil. Is there any way to bench test the e12-80 module? Any help would be great! Thanks,

Mike

guzinski@comcast.net

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B--(+) on the coil

C--(-) on the coil

180 off is incorrect. should attach the same as stock unit. Make sure #1 is towards the radiator.

It's so simple that most people complicate it. I just did one last week on Justin54321's Z.

Loosen the adjustment screws, Get your #1 piston to TDC, install the dizzy so it locks down onto the pin correctly, install the cap then put the #1 spark plug wire onto the post that is closes to the radiator where the rotor is pointing..

So before the cap goes on, the rotor should point forward'ish, note that mentally, instal cap and see which pole is closes to the rotors location, that's your #1 wire location.

Then install all the Spark plug wires, 1,5,3,6,2,4 ??? in counter-clockwise arrangement.

Even if the rotor points to the rear, make that post your #1 spark plug location and go 1,5,3,6,2,4 conter clockwise.

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The rotor is pointing in the correct orientation. just the distributor housing is 180 turned. I beleive that the shaft is keyed and it can only seat in one orientation. Another factor is that I had a dual point dizzy in there before. It appears that both wires to the stock dizzy go to the same place.(there is continuity) So there is only one of those original wires used.

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What mounting neck did you use? The 280ZX mount or the 240Z mount. I ask because they are different.

the orientation of the body is not important. The important part is when you attach the cap, the #1 plug is located above the rotors point. Then it's all fine tuning from there.

Just remember that the E12-80 dizzy was not made specifically for this application, so you're basically "retro-fitting" in order to make it work for your application.

Dave.

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Wups! Is the car now - or was it originally - an automatic? If so, only one of those two wires will work to fire it. You may need to re-group and run a separate new wire from the + on the coil to the B terminal on the module. This will by-pass the dual-point shenanigans the automatics used.

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I got one of the MSA 280zx mounts. the dizzy has the same orientation as yours does Zs. I'll have to check it out again when I get home and go through the Ignition trouble shooting from the fsm http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18660 that someone kindly posted a while back. I just don't get it unless the module is bad. I have done this before but on american steel.....shouldn't be that different. I think that module is bad....or the harness is bad..but it was working before at least

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Wups! Is the car now - or was it originally - an automatic? If so, only one of those two wires will work to fire it. You may need to re-group and run a separate new wire from the + on the coil to the B terminal on the module. This will by-pass the dual-point shenanigans the automatics used.

That's kinda what I said, I think.

"" B--(+) on the coil C--(-) on the coil ""

is that right?

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That's kinda what I said, I think.

"" B--(+) on the coil C--(-) on the coil ""

is that right?

Yes, Dave. But some other docs on the web tell you to connect the original wire for the points dizzy to the 'B' terminal, not to run a new wire. On a manual tranny car, the effect is the same, in fact that's what I did on my red car. But on an automatic, the two wires to the dual-point dizzy don't both work all the time. So on an auto car, you need a separate wire, using either of of the originals leads to problems.
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You're supposed to read my mind when I write stuff like that. Like is usually say "listen to what I mean, NOT what I say"

I should have wrote run a new wire from the B to the (+) on the coil. Sometimes I forget to be really specific when writing instructions.

Thanks for the clarification,

Dave.

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