AutoZone Test Results: battery/alternater/volt reg all bad. Possible?

[ZcarsRock]

Here is what happend to me today. I drove up to the auto zone and the guy hooks up his tester to my battery first.....results: Battery is bad!!!. Next i start the car and idle it at approx 1400 rpms for the alternater test.....Results: BAD!!! only putting out 12.5 volts. Next the Voltage regulator test: BAD!!! only putting out 5.5 to 6 amps.!!! Is it possible my Alternater is still ok, and that with a new battery and voltage regulator the alternater will check out ok? The store has an alternator in stock for $39.99

Thanks

Tony

Zcarsrock!!!

[E Train]

I still think that it is the alternator. If you get a new alternator, Charge The Battery. You will spend more money if you dont

[ZcarsRock]

but if the tester says the battery is bad, whats the point of trying to charge a "bad battery" I mean once the tester says the battery is shot, wouldn't it be smart to just get a new battery? and the Voltage regulator is only 16 bucks.....guess i'll just do all three. Hey do the voltage regulators come already gapped? or do i need to put the feeler guage to it?

Thanks,

Zcarsrock!

[2ManyZs]

The voltage regulator will be already set. I think the battery is probably showing that it is bad because you have been driving it for a while without it receiving any charge at all. Basically you have been running the ignition off the battery since it the charging system is not working properly.

My vote goes for alternator and a new voltage regulator (it's cheap insurance) and then have the battery trickle charged for an afternoon before you drive it again. If the battery won't hold up after a good charging and driving it with the new alternator, well, you know what that means. You have been driving it with a low charge from the alternator that it is possible the battery will not be any good since it has become so throughly discharged.

[CoastGuardZ]

So here it is. I've all but said it. I work at Autozone. I'm a shift manager otherwise known as a PSM.

The Skinny:

The fella should not even test your battery unless it reads 12.5 or higher when not even in use. If he proceeds to test it it will read one of 4 things.

1) good battery

2) good battery, low charge

3) Charge and retest (tester did not receive adequate info during

test and requires a full charge to give an acurateresult)

4) Bad battery

Charging system test reads voltage at battery (regulator output) and current supplied (drawn) durring charge cycle. Your regulator should be between ~13.1 - 14.5v and the amperage should be at least 60% of the alternators rated output.

RESULTS:

Your battery is bad. Let them use the Duralast Charger for free at Autozone or Trickle charge it yourself. In the end the battery will still test Bad.

I believe by running on the battery after the alt. crapped out one or more cells in the battery collapsed.

I would still say the alt. is bad but to be sure take it out and let them bench test it in the store. AutoZone can also bench test your reg., but since it's only like $15 I'd replace anyway.

Happy testing!

Nate:cross-eye

[ZmeFly]

i used to part time at Advanced Auto. we have the same tester

guess what that thing is a piece of ****!!!

doesnt really give you any definitive results.

if you have an advanced auto parts in your town go to it. they have a really nice battery tester indoors that will charge the battery and retest it.

they also have a real alternator tester inside.

i agree with most when they say that it is the alt and reg

have them checked it doesnt cost anything and its easy to do

[CoastGuardZ]

One thing to remember is that the only way to test all outputs of an alt. is while it's on the car. The indoor bench testers can only show if the alt. can maintain a voltage...this isn't really the alts only job...It's main purpose is to charge, that's current and can only be done with the proper load on it, your car.

Nate:cross-eye

[skip260z]

that you are dealing with a 3-legged stool. When one goes, everything topples. Word is that if the ALT goes, replace it and the Volt Reg - together.

With those 2 back up to speed, the battery part of the test can be done inside, on the bench, where it will be a whole lot more accurate.

If it checks out inside, then combined with your new ALT and VReg, the curbside checks should be very accurate.

After all that, I still ended up w/ a bad (re-man) ALT that was new out-of-the-box from Advance; replaced it and all has been well ever since.

BTW, the Advance Auto re-man'd Z alternators have a warranty and, they (at least mine) are re-man'd Hitachi's.

The $16.00 VoltReg will be a solid-state model, nothing to adjust, a sealed box. IMHO, better that way.

And remember that while your are at it, may as well get a new fan belt.

[ZcarsRock]

hope someone is still up to read this. I am risking something, as i have to drive 80 miles to Topeka tomorrow morning for a business meeting. I'm taking my car. Problem is i've changed the battery and alternater, but not the voltage regulator. So far the car is doing ok. My regulator comes in Monday. I want some reassurance that i wont hurt my battery/alternater if i drive this weekend with the old one still in the car. I plan on puting about 250 miles on the car, most in the day time.

Tony

ZcarsRock!!!

[2ManyZs]

Shouldn't be a problem, just keep an eye on the voltmeter for a while. If it isn't pegged on the high side of the scale, your voltage regulaor may be OK. But just to be on the safe side, it might not be a bad idea to change it when you can. They are cheap and they do probably fail more than any other part of the charging system. With a new battery and alternator you should be OK on your trip.