5-speed in my '74

[austex]

Hey guys, it's looking like I might have to be buying some new clutch components--maybe just the pressure plate, maybe everything, etc. Problem is, I don't think I have the stock clutch in my '74 260 (only had it a couple months) since it has a 5-speed. Any idea of which 5-speed would be in there? Or which clutch components would be compatible? I just figure if I go buy the stuff for a '74 260, that it might end up being the wrong part.

[ezzzzzzz]

Look under the car at the tailshaft of the transmission. If it has one flat 'ear' cast off to the drivers side it's a later 5 speed. If it has two 'ears', one on either side, it is an earlier 5 speed. There is an even earlier 5 speed (type A) but it isn't likely you have that. There are still other 5 speeds that might have been fitted (such as a BW T5) but this is also unlikely. It is also likely that you have the 225mm flywheel (240mm in the 2+2 models only). The only pertinent thing is the throwout bearing much be matched to the pressure plate. Buy all pieces at the same time and you'll be okay. There is so much info available but you'll have to use the search option. Try that here and over at classiczcars.com and hybridz.org.

[fixitman]

I have an early '74 260Z with a new factory 280Z 5-speed (new in 1983 anyway). I believe the clutch parts are for a 280Z 5-speed also. At this point, the Nissan part numbers probably all superceed to an early 280Z or later Z series. Check with the dealer.

Good luck.

Fixitman

[ktm]

The clutch parts have NOTHING to do with the transmission but rather the flywheel and the relationship between the throwout collar and pressure plate. The same clutch, pressure plate and throwout collar can be used on a 1970/1 4-speed, 1972/3 4-speed, 1974 4-speed, 1976/8 4-speed, 1978 5-speed and 1979 to 1983 5-speeds.

You must match the throwout collar (not the bearing but the collar) to the pressure plate. The throwout collar determines the spacing of the throwout bearing from the pressure plate fingers. The 2+2 fingers did not protrude as far as the coupe fingers and thus the throwout collar was longer. Using a 2+2 collar with a coupe pressure plate results in the throwout bearing resting against the pressure plate fingers. Conversely, using a couple collar with a 2+2 pressure plate results in the clutch not disengaging entirely as there is not enough travel.

[austex]

Here's a picture... Sorry if it's not descriptive enough, it's pretty tight under there for someone who isn't tiny.

[austex]

Sorry, KTM, didn't see your response before I posted the pic. Guess you pretty much summed it up! Thanks. So basically if I just buy everything together as a set, it'll be fine? For example... I could buy the kit below, and as long as the collar is the right one, it'll work?

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC08/21-2271

...not that I'm going to get that one.

[sblake01]

Well, over in the other thread, I don't think you properly bled the system. Even with a new clutch, which at this point I don't think you need, you'll still be facing the same problem if you don't solve that first.

[austex]

Well I bled it till there weren't any air bubbles, etc. What would I have done wrong? And what would other symptoms of badly needing to bleed it be? Because right now, the pedal is super easy to depress. It feels like it's not doing anything it should be doing, although it did obviously pump the fluid out when I was bleeding it. It's like the clutch is engaged, and I can't DISengage it with the pedal. It makes me think it's something in the clutch itself, but again...I haven't worked on hydraulic ones before.

Oh, and it wasn't really easy to depress until after I put it in first with the engine off, then started it with the pedal in, and enjoyed all the bucking and lurching forward that ensued... Before that, the pedal felt normal.

[beandip]

When a clutch goes bad it is almost always because the clutch disk is worn out and the clutch is slipping . Sounds like yours is engaged. Something isn't right here. Where did you bleed the clutch? just at the master cylinder ? maybe? Sorry , but sometimes guys don't have the knowledge and we need to go back to the basics. If there are no leaks of brake fluid any where , I hesitate to say that it is the master cylinder. I have never seen one of these go bad without leaking fluid. There must be air in the line or in the master, try bleeding the master and then the slave again. This may save you a bunch of work and $$.

[austex]

Alright, interesting development... I bled it again, and the pedal feels firm-ish again. I started it up in neutral and still wasn't able to shift into any gears other than R... but this time when I shifted into reverse, it died.

Thanks, beandip. I just bled it at the slave. Has a brake hose going to it and a bleeder, and it's the end of the line so I figured that's where I need to do it?... So, next question, I guess....how do I bleed the master? Also, I can't see any leaks of any kind.

[Arne]

There is no difference in the clutch itself between mechanical and hydraulic. The clutch fork, pressure plate and release bearing all work exactly the same as a cable or linkage operated clutch. If the clutch won't disengage, you have one of two issues - either the hydraulic system has a problem (air in the system, bad cylinder at one end or the other), or there is a problem with the mechanical parts inside. While you could conceivably have a bent clutch fork or something like that, it is FAR more likely that the hydraulics aren't working properly.

Clutch hydraulics are no big mystery, they work exactly the same as the rear brake cylinders do. All the same procedures and methods apply.

[austex]

So I ended up getting this clutch set. I'm on a bit of a budget and it seemed like the best choice for the money. Better tell me soon if that's the wrong one and/or crappy so I can cancel the order. Haha

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=PHT&MfrPartNumber=MU475361&PartType=244&PTSet=A