I wanted to wait a while till I had some better shots to show you all but they may be a while longer than I thought so this is what it looks like at the moment.

I feked the front guards by sanding them flat while on the bench, they look like they are from another car, the gaps between the doors and guards are 1cm apart:stupid: guess that what happens when a sales rep tries to be a panel beater. Anyway thats one for the real panel beaters to fix when it goes in for a proper spray job. If anyone has to good straight guards let me know.

I'm going to register it with the std engine and interior in it as I just can't bear to have it sitting in the garage anymore. I have a universal harness matched up to the original switch gear, I'm quite happy about that.

Anyway you all know the rest, hope you all like it.

on the painting course they suggested using the new type of poly based bogs.. loads easier to sand than the cheap nasty stuff.. i bought a 1L tub of it.. then when i got home i compared the label to the 1.5L tub of Davids P38 i bought from PPC.. they look identical..

so i am expecting the sanding to be magically easy (especially when i make the girlfriend do most of it!.. it's only fair.. she did some of the stripping!).

I am really still aiming for finishing in 2010.. but i am not 100% sure i will make it.. the next year is shaping up to be quite busy already

the sooner i can get the GT together and out of the way the sooner i can get onto the bodywork!

Edited October 17, 200816 yr by khughes

When your bogging try and do a small areas and then make sure you scrape it flat before it dries. It takes a lot longer to sand bog than it does to scrape it while it's nearly dry. I stuffed this up heaps of times.

When I bog, I use a hacksaw / meal saw blade, to 'scrape' it flat before it dries

Nigel

That $^!# sounds hardcore, are you sure it's not thermite?

When I was a kid (12 -14 ish) my brother and I use to make it, not sure if it the same thing, but it would weld metal together (I was told it was used to join train line tacks together), and very easy to make, aluminium powder and rust powder, and something very hot to light it (oxy)

Nigel

Good work on getting your girlfriend to work with you. I was only able to get my gf to help out once on the car . . . maybe I shouldn't have stuck her in the boot painting 2k primer with dust filters on the mask.:cheeky:

No matter how easy to sand it's still going to be quicker to scrape it first. . . . i think. My bog has settled now and is no longer perfectly flat, It shows up heaps of imperfections and took about 2 months to settle. I bought some finishing bog but it was very hard to sand so i never used it and now have to go over heaps of bits again. Do a bit and spray some shiny paint over it and leave it for a few months to make sure yours doesn't do the same.

Noodle go out and buy a $9.95 scraping tool from supercheap it's gotta be easier than using the hacksaw. My friend and i tried to make thermite when we about 13 after downloaded the jolly roger cookbook from the then brand spanking new internet, as I recall we wasted a whole weekend and a few magnesium strips trying to light it but to no avail.

Guys,

The Naval Rust convertor/protector is a fluid. When straight, a few drops on concrette burns a small hole in it. You mix it down with water. 20 to 1 is a normal good mix, but you can make it stronger. The problem with a to hot mix is that it starts to burn/oxidise the bare metal black. Properly mixed, it should turn a slight white colour.

I shall ring a mate down in Melbourne that bought a 40 litre container of it recently. Apparently that is the minimum quantity it is sold in. Funny when I have made a litre last a decade so far. (You only need to use it once on a car - The rust doesnot come back)

Thinking about it, they probably don't mess about in the Navy with rust protection. Living in metal tubs in a salt water bath. It's good ship. ;-)

sounds like the perfect thing to dip a car in anyone got a pool handy?

Guys,

The Naval Rust convertor/protector is a fluid. When straight, a few drops on concrette burns a small hole in it. You mix it down with water. 20 to 1 is a normal good mix, but you can make it stronger. The problem with a to hot mix is that it starts to burn/oxidise the bare metal black. Properly mixed, it should turn a slight white colour.

I shall ring a mate down in Melbourne that bought a 40 litre container of it recently. Apparently that is the minimum quantity it is sold in. Funny when I have made a litre last a decade so far. (You only need to use it once on a car - The rust doesnot come back)

Thinking about it, they probably don't mess about in the Navy with rust protection. Living in metal tubs in a salt water bath. It's good ship. ;-)

Sounds like phosphoric acid. It's what is in the the bottles of rust converter that you can get from hardware shops.

Sounds like phosphoric acid. It's what is in the the bottles of rust converter that you can get from hardware shops.

The rust converter from the shops doesn't burn holes in concrete though, I just tried it.

Can you paint over the fluid once it goes white?

The rust converter from the shops doesn't burn holes in concrete though, I just tried it.

Can you paint over the fluid once it goes white?

Thats because its diluted with water. If it was 100% acid it might.

I don't paint over it, I get a wire brush attachment in a grinder and brush off all the white/black crud back to clean bare metal again. If there is still rust I repeat the process. then etch prime and paint.

I meant can you paint over the Navy stuff not the rust converter

Found the name of the company and the rust removing product. They are located in Melbourne and Sydney. You can buy 5 litre minimum. That would last a life time. Unless you a planning a pool party Kent.

I'll keep on the company and as soon as I have a result I shall post all the info. It looks lie about $40-45 for the 5 litre, so I don't think it's worth sharing a single purchase. The problem will be for those that want it transported. Oz Post will not touch the stuff - It must be an acid or dangerous chemical.

Got It !

The Company Name is Peerless JAL Pty Ltd. The Head Office is in Melbourne at Preston, but they have an office in Sydney out at Seven Hills. The stuff is called RUSTOFF. Trade price is $32.51 plus GST. It normally sells for $42.00.

Now the Sydney office had only one 5 litre container left and guess who got that. But they can ship more up from Melbourne on demand. For all those not located in either capital, deal with Melbourne directly. You may have to sort your own shipping out.

I have not tried the contrete test yet, but it looks like the same stuff I have been using for years.

Peerless JAL Pty Ltd

Melbourne: 03 9416 8333

Sydney: 02 9674 3000