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I feel stupid for this, I really do. I'm putting my 4spd back in my '72 today. I can't get the transmission back on. I've done this before, I know it's not rocket science.

I've put on a new clutch, using an alignment tool. When I put the transmission back, I can't get it to lock back into place against the block. I'm about a half inch back all of the way around. The mounting bracket holes on the transmission are, you guessed it, a half inch back from where they should be. The standard bolts I'm using to try & bolt it to the block are just touch too short & they just touch the block when fed through the bell housing & the metal plate.

Could I have done something wrong installing the clutch? Am I just not "working" the transmission enough? Should I get some longer bolts & try to "draw" the transmission back to the block & then replace them with the standard ones? The transmission is being held up with two jacks right now, sitting in the engine with the motor being steadied by an engine hoist. My arms are exhausted & my nerves are shot on this one.


Yes, the gap is even all around. The transmission is in neutral. I have not tried turning the motor. Are you suggesting that I have someone turn the motor at the crank pulley & see if I can get the spline to go in the last little bit?

Good luck, let me know how it goes. Tomorrow I put some Rust Bullet on a few spots in the engine bay. And then get it ready for some touch-up paint. By mid week I hope the be putting the l28 into my 240z

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No no! Don't try to start the motor! And even turning it by hand is not the best way to do it. Instead, put the transmission in gear, any gear. Then slip the driveshaft in the rear and spin the transmission using the driveshaft.

Thanks Arne for clarifying about not using the starter. I never do that so I just assumed no one else would. Why is it best to just turn the tranny and not the motor? I'm curious. Might turn the motor the wrong direction? I always am looking to learn more. Jon

If the transmission is in neutral, turning the engine might well turn the input shaft at the same time, and never get lined up. The engine has much more resistance to turning, so if you turn the transmission you are unlikely to move the engine with it.

Is the tranny sitting on a jack all this time or are you lifting by hand ?Do not let trans hang by the input shaft while you do this as it will damage the hub in the clutch disc, if you have assume it is already razzed.

That's basically what I was going to say. I use a trans jack saddle on my floor jack and once you hit the right angle/pitch, the trans slips right in when everything is lined up. That part of the job has never taken me more than a minute or so. If it's hanging up, whatever you do, don't try to force it with longer bolts, you'll 'razz' somehing to borrow a term from carrott.

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