Testing distributor output/pulse?

[tomb]

looking for help please, I searched for hours with no luck.

My 1972 240 with HI-6 spark box P92 coil and 280z distributor worked perect for many years. Now it won't start. No spark at the plugs. The HI-6 staus light does not turn on and off when cranking. This is suposed to mean no input trigger from the distrubtor.

A mechanic said it's the HI-6 box gone bad (it's been in an area that gets moist/damp for some of the year). But before I replace it, I would like to make sure the distrubtor is not the problem.

So is there a way to test if it's sending a trigger pulse from the pick-up coil? How do I take it's pulse:)

Tom

[fiveleaf]

EDIT: I am the new owner tomb's 240z. Below was my route to solving the problem. I am his son.

Well... you start with bypassing the HI-6 to make sure the box is the problem. It might runs well, but will give some spark issues after a few miles.

Then go to the plugs and distributor, because that got to be the next probable thing to go wrong. Change the plug wires, just in case.

If things don't immideatly get better, change the fuel pump, filter, and oil. Just in case.

You are then free to go on limping with di-electrical grease for a bit, changing the plugs daily, before you think... "It's gotta be those carbs... right? I mean, the filters were dirty, so why not?"

So you spend a few days taking the triple webers off, making sure all the tubes are the same, no float chamber issues, etc... but they will all be pretty clean, and you are free to scratch your head for a bit.

Hey, what if some of the equipment was faulty? Well... then buying replacement's would be a waste, so I advise you to upgrade it all. That way, it the upgraded part wasn't the problem, you can write it off as a "peformance upgrade".

New (used) HI-6 and a Mallory Unilite should do the trick. Unfortunatly, the HI-6 will have it's wires pulled, and the unilite won't spin. You should then kick yourself for buying a used ignition box, and actually cough up the dough for a new one.

You are then free to learn firsthand that rust isin't just the bane of zcars, but also for distributors. After many pictures, hours of intutitive trial-and-error, and the experience of "Oh F***, I frogot to make markings before taking the old distributor off", you're ready to get it running again. Replace the fuel pump again just for good measure.

It still won't be right, so play with every possible combination of fuel, idle, and advance you can think of. Then decide that it must be the carbs, and send it to the shop to have somebody who knows more than you look at it.

They will call you in a few days and tell you you need a full top-end engine rebuild. Kick yourself, because after thinking it "must be the carbs" all along... it wasn't.

Sorry for reviving this thread, but it really needed an ansewer.

Maybe it now belongs in the "Open z-car discussion" fourm.

Edited March 3, 2010 by fiveleaf
Suggest fourm move, also to let you guys know this was ment to be funny.

[tomb]

Funny, but sadly true:mad:

[ChrisZ]

Can't you just wire it up without the HI-6, do you have the E12-80 module.

Chris