I put the battery cables on the battery wrong. Now I have no electricty to the car. Battery has been charged and 12v is at the starter. Jammed a screwdriver between the two leads on the starter and the engine turned over. No voltage at all inside the car. All fuses inside the main box are good. Is ther any other fuses I can check.

Dave (Rookie move)

Yeah, there is a fusible link that runs from the big lead on the starter solenoid to the wiring harness. When that one blows, nothing works. See the attached picture.

Yeah, there is a fusible link that runs from the big lead on the starter solenoid to the wiring harness. When that one blows, nothing works. See the attached picture.

And to add to that, it may appear to be good on the outside so give it a "Tug" to make sure it did'nt burn on the inside of the wire. Or just use an Ohms meter to check for continuity.

Let us know what you find.

Dave.

Just checked it with a test light good. According to the diagram the white were talking about goes to voltage regulator , thats good then goes through the fire wall tested thats good . So I'am at left hand side underneath the glove box with the white fusible link (white wire) turning my test light on. This wire also goes to my ammeter. there is a heavy white/red wire at the fuse box that is dead at this point. Does not show any fuses to the fuse box.

Dave

The fusible link portion is ONLY from the Starter to the connection at the wire harness. That is, the plastic single spade locking connector connecting the fusible link to the harness, to the Ring connector at the starter.

The rest of the wiring you describe is normal wiring, although 10/12 ga or so.

If you DO have 12v+ at the Regulator (with sheet metal as the ground) then your fusible link IS functional.

That you do NOT have 12v+ at the W/R wire (again to body ground) at the fuse box implies the Alternator's internal wiring.

FWIW

E

So do I replace the Alternator

Dave

Take it to a store and have them test it, if it fails the test then replace it.

E

Thats will be my next move.Has to be the problem if reverse the polarity.Will let you Know. Dave

Was reading post from helopilot, who had the same problem. It ended up being his ammeter (Continuity). But a new one in and it worked.

Dave

Problem solved. Ammeter in the dash does not like reverse polarity. It melted the coil that moves the dial. The main voltage runs through the ammeter first before feeding the rest of the car. Check the drawing.I have pictures but don't know how to but them into the post.

Dave