Black Pearl stored since 1987, thoughts,,,,

[MikeZcar]

Ok it's time for my "new" Black Pearl to come to life, it's been stored in a heated/cooled garage since 1987. It's a low miles, one owner, always serviced till it was stored, clean machine. If it was a "carb" car I'd have a better idea where to start but it has that voodoo fuel injection. I'm going to replace all the rubber parts I can to start with, including fuel and vacuum lines.

What's almost surely gone bad in the FI system?

What FI pieces should I go ahead and plan to purchase and replace?

What might be marginal in FI that I need to take a look at?

Can you tell I'm not well versed in FI and have dodged it for my 52 years on the planet? It's time to learn.

Thoughts/suggestions appreciated, don't be shy.

Mike

[Carl Beck]

Hi Mike:

I think the first thing to say is; Make No Attempt To Turn The Engine Over with a starting battery - Until you have first dropped the fuel tank and cleaned it out. Plus cleaning the hard fuel lines out and replacing all the high pressure rubber hoses.

Once that is done - and after you have turned the engine over by hand (pulled the plugs, and put a few ounces of ATF down the cylinder bores); the dumped to old oil and put fresh oil and filters in place, and lubricated the cam/rockers... Add about 5 gallons of fresh gasoline, plus some fuel injector cleaner.... and start it up. With any luck, the fuel injectors will not be stuck with varnish... and the fresh fuel and injector cleaner will clear them out if they are working at all.

Trying to crank a car that been sitting for years without doing the above - almost always results in varnish from the tank, being sucked into the lines and then into the injectors. The varnis is like jello.. it can be sucked though the fuel filter, because while it is thick and sticky... it usually doesn't have large particles that the filter will catch and hold.

Past that point - you'll need to change all the high pressure rubber fuel lines... they decay with age and the higher pressures of the FI system will cause them to burst unexpectedly.. .not a good thing. I suggest doing one thing at a time when it comes to replacing items - - if you do too many things at one time - it's hard to figure out what if anything you did wrong - or left disconnected etc...

FWIW,

Carl B.

[beandip]

Be vary careful with this engine. Any time one of these engines are stopped , there are two valves open to the outside air. This has two problems , one is the possibility of the cylinders rusting and the other is the valve stems can rust and cause them to stick. Be Vary sure to first , turn the engine over several times BY HAND ! With a wrench on the crank pulley. As Carl said , remove the valve cover and pour oil over the cam and all components. And add the AFT in the cylinders . I would let that oil soak over night. Then use the wrench and see if the engine is free. With the plugs removed you should be able to turn over the engine easily. Pour oil into the new filter before you screw it on, it helps a little to get oil moving to the bearings just a little quicker when you do start it . When you do get her running keep the RPM up around 1500 to 2K , this will benefit the oiling of the cylinders and provide oil pressure to the bearings. Watch the temp as she warms up. I have had these engines heat up because of air locked up in the thermostat and keeping the coolant from contacting it and it stays closed . Watch it closely not just the gage feel around he head with your hand . If it get really hot to the touch shut id down. Let it set for a few minutes and start it up again, conducted heat will open the thermostat and coolant should flow. I wouldn't add any antifreeze until much later . When you drain all the fluids , just add plain water to the rad. If you have leaking hoses or anything then you can do the repairs with only water to deal with. when all is good I use 50/50 mix. Let us know how your car comes to life . Gary

[zpizzaman20]

Also fuel filter, brake fluid and hoses. The 3 little heater hoses in the middle of the fuel injection. Probably want to clean all the injector clips, cold start valve, thermotine and temp sense clips.

[MikeZcar]

As far as the motor, 1 shot of PB Blaster per cylinder followed by tablespoon of ATF. Will pull the valve cover and Marvel Mystry Oil the valve train then some nice new Castrol poured on it. Only thing I did with the motor before purchase was put a socket on the crank and move it about 2 degrees just to make sure it wasn't locked in place. When I pull the plugs the old ones will be used to introduce never-seize to the threads. Every nut, bolt, screw and washer I touch on an old car gets never-seize, I love that stuff. A battery is way down the road. Car is so clean I'll pull and build the motor if I have to.

Will also replace all hydraulic rubber as in brakes and clutch, and change all fluids.

All work above and all FI lines and filters will be new BEFORE battery and gas introduced as well as blowing carb cleaner through the hard lines and a good tank inspection/cleaning.

Just trying to get ready and have whatever "always screws up" as far as FI stuff.

Keep those thoughts coming, this is my 3rd Pearl to own and it has an interesting story I'll relay later on.

Mike

[MikeZcar]

Also fuel filter, brake fluid and hoses. The 3 little heater hoses in the middle of the fuel injection. Probably want to clean all the injector clips, cold start valve, thermotine and temp sense clips.

Not even sure what these are but bet I can find them. Just a good inspection and cleaning?

Mike

[sblake01]

I don't know if there's anything specific on EFI that "always screws up" but I had to replace the cold start valve on both cars when I bought them as well as the temp sensor on the 810. The air pressure regulator was problematic on the 810 when I first got the car but I cleaned it out and it still works fine. All the rest of the EFI components on both cars are the originals or at least the ones that were on it when I purchased them.

[Bonzi Lon]

When you do a tank inspection and find some brown varnish in there, regular gas will get SOME of it broken down. I got the majority of it out with laquer thinner, rather expensive, (13.75 gallon), but worked great. I got about a cup of goo out of mine, but it had been setting for 26 years with 3/4 of a tank of gas that evaporated to less than a gallon, what a mess and stink, but fine now, after rust prevention and lining.

Bonzi Lon

[sblake01]

Not even sure what these are but bet I can find them. Just a good inspection and cleaning?

Mike

Look underneath the three shaded areas.

[Mr Camouflage]

Once you've sorted out the engine you'll have to overhaul the brakes. They are probably foobar by now.