Heater Control Valve

[Tim 76' 280Z]

I know that I keep on posting these things but im totally stressed out over this whole heater deal. I got the car a week ago and its already under the weather. So my question is do i need the vacume heater control valve or can i just put a manuel valve on that opens and closes with the cable? Or should I just fork out the 120 bucks and buy a new vaccum control valve. Wel let me know what you guys think???

[Montezuma]

Fork out the $120 and do it right. I look at it this way, if the part you are replacing is original it is over 30 years old, your new part should be good for the same amount of time. I for one am not down with all this cheap fixes, I like to use original or OEM parts whenever I can.

[webdawg1]

Might want to get cozy with the idea that you'll be spending money on this car...and lots of it... Just ask anyone that's been working on their car for a while and ask them to total up their reciepts...Normal answer would be something like "OMG...I've spent THAT MUCH money on Parts, Paint, Tires, Rims, Engine work, Body work...etc...etc...etc...etc...etc...etc.

Don't let the car hear you though...something else will break on ya...

webdawg1

[sblake01]

Like I said in the other thread there are two different valves depending on whether or not you car had factory air. I noticed you said vacuum (well you actually said 'vacume' and then 'vaccum') but your car doesn't appear to have factory air. So, make sure you get the correct heater control valve for your car or you'll be facing even more frustration. Look at the bright side: once you're done, you won't have to worry about that heater setup for about another 30 years.

[Arne]

I know that I keep on posting these things but im totally stressed out over this whole heater deal. I got the car a week ago and its already under the weather.

Tim, no offense intended, but you are dealing with a 32 year old car. You will find - as time goes on - more and more things like this. Parts that are hard to find, things that break, things that previous owners hocked up, things that don't work like you think they should. These are all part of owning and driving an older classic car. If you are going to get "stressed out'" over these kind of normal old car problems, then it may be time to re-evaluate whether a classic car is the right car for you.

[EScanlon]

Tim:

You've asked this question in 4 different ways and posts now. While everyone has been polite in telling you their reasons for the answers they've given, and the consensus is to not waste time, money and effort by trying to rig something up, but to simply find an OEM piece that works and fits for your year of car. You've been ignoring that and hoping for a different answer. Well, here goes. Hopefully you will not be offended but will instead, understand that we're trying to help you.

You keep asking: do I have to replace it with the OEM valve or can I do it a different way.

Well the answer is simple, do it whatever way YOU can figure out. However, if that is NOT the answer you wanted to hear, then read on.

Yes, you can replace it with a manual control valve.

Which one, where to obtain it, how it mounts, how much it will cost, how will you operate it, what other modifications will you have to do in order to make it work.....ALL of the answers to those questions are unknown to the majority of us here. The reason is simple, we've not done it that way.

If you wanted to really go cheap just replace the valve and the firewall "thingy" with some heater hose and a pair of Vice-Grips. Then just squirt some of that construction type foam insulation around the hole in the firewall to close off the engine smell and possible exhaust fumes from the cabin. Granted, it will be a complete nuisance to have to adjust the Vice-Grips before you get the amount of heat you want, but it is a workable 'MacGyver" solution. Not pretty, but functional.

Don't like that one? Well, why not simply bypass the heater plenum and just route the heater hoses BACK to the engine and disconnect the heater entirely. A bit of duct tape on the firewall opening and Presto=Zesto! you've "fixed" it. No, there won't be any heat in the car, but surely that's a luxury you can do without. After all, we're looking at doing this on the "cheap".

Still don't like that answer? How about looking up the various boneyards across the country and querying them as to the availability and $ for that part. Let me warn you that 1) the part may be one that the boneyards do not consider salvageable for a reasonable amount of $; and 2) they MAY salvage it, but the price is high...high enough that a NEW piece is suddenly a viable option. Lastly, don't forget that you'll be getting another 30 year old part, unless it was replaced by a prior owner of the car in the boneyard.

To that end, have you checked with the boneyards that specialize in Z parts? Danny's Datsuns is down in Oregon, but he may have gone out of business, at least he was intending to. Have you posted a "Wanted" classified in the various Z forums and clubs? Have you done any of the leg work to find any of this information or are you hoping someone here will do that for you? How much are you willing to pay for that service? TANSTAAFL

What's that? None of these options are what you want? You want it to be as original as possible? Well then it seems as though the only option for you is to either obtain a used part or buy a new one. I've given you the basic outline of what you need to do. There's a wonderful feature on this site called "Search". There is a LOT of information there for the wonderful price of....your effort to find it. Heck, you may even find that someone posted a viable work-around some time past.

But the bottom line is this: There are only 2 solutions here, one is to buy an exact replacement part or not. We've consistently told you that the OEM part is the way to go, you've insisted on asking it again and again, hoping for a different answer.

The solution to your question is for you to go out, research it, and then POST your findings and work-around. That is how the majority of us here have helped the other members with their cars. Look up Cowl Drain, Fuel Vent Line Replacement, Headlight Harness, Alternator Adapter to name just some of the different ways that we've found work arounds and improvements.

Now, before you consider this a flame or a scolding, it's just the plain unvarnished facts and truth as I see it. You're welcome to not like it, you're welcome to ignore it, I'm not trying to p!ss in your Wheaties. Take it as a bit of friendly advice and help.

FWIW

E

[Tim 76' 280Z]

My reason for asking the question in so many differents ways was I was hoping that some one had found a better newer way of doing the heater valve. I would think that there would be a universal heater valve out there. You know or just something better then having that little copper hose on it that i might just break again. Thats why I was asking if you guys have done it any other way... But it look like no one has so I have to go with the original part. Which is fine. Its just that im bummed out that I bought this car last week for 1900 dollars and its already down being fixed didnt even get to drive it much. And this is not my first classic Ive owned and still own a 1969 ford truck that ive been working on and know its up for sale. So im sorry to pester you guys over and over I was just hoping some one would say I found that this works better then the original.

[beandip]

Just a comment. Nissan has done a good job in designing these cars. Are there flaws in design ? Sure a few, but vary few. I have completely disassembled my entire Z and this is my observation.

Watch eBay there may be a new valve show up for sale. With a Car this old you should prepare your self for finding this sort of thing again and again as time goes on. If this sort of thing stresses you , I recommend that you keep your old truck and sell the Z. Life is too short to be stressed over something like this. Gary

[Tim 76' 280Z]

Well Guys I first of all want to appologize for posting the same thread over and over to see if I would get a different answer. I got the heater core in, the heater core valve working and not leaking, and the blower fan back in. I would like to say thank you to all of you who helped me out! I would have to say that was a big project for me... but... its done!!!!:classic:

[beandip]

Glad you fixed the problem. Sorry but this was a simple job really. With any car this old there will be many other things that will come up. So just realize it and take them as they come up. How is the rest of the Z mechanically? How many miles on it . Overall condition means allot. Gary