Okay, I am a newbie idiot

[derk]

I admit it. I am slowly coming up to speed on my 71 240, which has been parked for 14 years or so.

Anyway, I have pulled the spark plugs and disconnected the coil. Put some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Let sit for a week. Now want to rotate engine by hand to see if it has seized.

My spitfire has a bolt on the front of the crank.

How do I rotate the Z engine by hand?

The fan obviously spins freely.

Also if I can rotate it, I presume counterclockwise as looking at the front of the engine is the way to go?

Sorry I am a dufus.

[hmsports]

There is a 26mm bolt on the crank pulley - the bottom most pulley on the engine -- and use a long breaker bar. The fan is on the pulley for the water pump. The crank rotates clockwise -- looking from the front of the engine. The distributor rotates counter-clockwise.

Just for fun...

The firing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4. A cylinder fires every 120 degrees of rotation. 1@0, 5@120, 3@240, 6@360, 2@480 and 4@600

And hey, we all started somewhere -- and yes, some of us are still dufuses :classic:

[derk]

Breaker bar from the top or bottom? Not sure I have room from the top?

[hmsports]

I've used a standard 1/2" ratchet from the top -- but then I'm not running the stock fan. Try coming in from the driver's side. You may have to support the car on jack stands and get it from below. I usually end up with some nice cuts on my hands from the radiator fins.

[derk]

A decade or so in storage and I can turn her around by hand...that's a nice thing. (Once I forgot she was in gear :stupid: )

Got the oil changed, the oil filter changed and the radiator drained. I think I forgot the gasket on the radiator plug so I guess I am going back to do that again. (Found it in the pan.)

Next on the list is the master cylinder, because I have a shiny new one.

Also I need to drop the gas tank. Will look thru the hints for that. Any hoses I must replace, you think?

What do you do with old gas ?

:classic:

What are the odds the gas line is okay...should I replace anyway after 14 years in storage?

Got a new fuel filter, natch, but think I need some way to blow the old fuel from tank to filter or would it have evaporated by now?

Heard rumor of a second fuel filter...will haul out the Chilton's.

Still checking for radiator place willing to steam clean the tank and line it with that stuff.

:surprised

Will get the wheels off and start on looking at the brakes next. Think the lines are shot? Cylinder is bone dry.

Tie rods look shot too. sigh.

[smg1404]

Sounds loke a lot of fun... Really. Each time you work on it for some time to come, you are going to find out more about your car, and it's history. The payback is in the successes, and ultimately driving the car. Keep us posted on your progress. Have fun.

[beandip]

There is a co. that is called P O R 15 and they have a kit for cleaning and coating the tank also they have various products to clean out and stop rust and repair rusted sheetmetal. Vary good products , not cheep but you get what you pay for. We have a distributer out here in Ore. and Here is the Phone # and they will ship. 541-345-8092 As for the fuel lines I dont think you will have too much of a problem with them I would replace the rubber hoses if they are brittle , you might disconnect the line from the old filter and while you have the tank out , that is if you pull it , blow sonme compressed air in from the tank end. There are fuel filters in the inlets to the carbs at least there were when the car was new. Be aware that the floats in the carbs may vary well stick, and if in the open position you could have a spill problem . At the local Motor cycle shop they have stuff for desolving fuel "varnish "Good luck to you .