Bruce's answer pretty much covers it. Make sure you use hose rated for fuel injection. conedodger, I was just giving you an hard time. What you said is probably true in most cases.

Oh sorry... I thought I wasn't clear enough in what I said. No offense taken. I am actually the person who used to have the website PlanetZ with instructions on how to convert a Turbo AFM for use in a NA 280Z. I have quite a bit of experience with EFI but I have generally come to the conclusion that most people should stick to making what the factory gave them work the way the factory intended. I now have the 240Z I have always wanted... It rocks!

OK guys, got the injector off and it didn't seem to have any kind of seal on the end of it. It had the larger one that goes around the middle but it didn't have one where it goes intot eh manifold??? The FSM doesn't show one there either. The seal kit I got has two per injector. Here is a picture of the injector with the new small seal that came with the kit. This can't be where it goes, can it???

Does the injector seal itself metal to metal? Or is this where the seal goes?

Thanks. 77 280Z if that helps...

that seal is in the right place you will find that the spot in the intake will fit that OD of that just right. I think that you would only need 1 per injector.

Now I'm in BIG trouble. While trying to take off the #2 injector that damn phillips screw is stripped like a SOB...What the hell do I do now? I certainly can't be the first one to have these screw heads strip like that...

How do I get it out? Of course it's the bottom one..I can barely get a screw driver on it much less anything else...

hmm....I had a similar problem with mine. I found a bigger screwdriver and put all my weight at the end of it to twist it out.

the p/o had to cut slots into 2 screws for the same reason. I went on ebay and ordered a set of brand new screws so I don't kill myself trying to work with those stripped screw heads

BTDT. I removed the stripped ones with a 'screw out' tool in an inpact screwdriver and replaced the screws with stainless allen head bolts. #3 is sort of a pain being behind the FPR, however.

This problem just recently came up. Maybe this will help.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29251&highlight=valve+compound

So check this out...I now know why I was confused about the seal...The #1 injector DID NOT have one...and #2 had two!!! Someone must have lost their concentration a bit eh?

Now I know for sure that was the hissing sound I heard..Other people's kids, what are ya gonna do???

Anyhow, I got the screws out finally after having to cut slots in the top and use a big flat head..

thanks everyone for your help and I will no doubt be a regular around here for a while...

Replace the screws with stainless allen head bolts, you'll be much happier next time you have to do that job.

  sblake01 said:

Replace the screws with stainless allen head bolts, you'll be much happier next time you have to do that job.

Good advice...I will be purchasing 12 of those tomorrow...

I replaced all of the injector seals and thouroghly cleaned the nasty electrical connections. Fired her up yesterday and I instantly heard the difference. Ran much smoother than before and the idle, after warm up dropped right down to about 900 RPM. (Never idled lower than about 1300 before)

So as I was patting my self on the back for a job well done and listening to her purr like a kitten, it stumbled a little and the idle fell to about 500 for a couple of seconds, then died? It did it again a few times this morning once it warmed up. Both times once it had reached operating temp.

Any idea what could cause this? Or what I should check? The air regulator is new and I checked it last week. The PO installed a Weber TB on it so there is no BCDD anymore...

Thoughts? Thanks!