i put new OEM loaded calipar and rotor, rear drums and shoes and springs, its all new, now the brake pedal is really hard and it almost seems like the rear's are the only one's that are working.

here is the link to my ride

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/358320

cavalier_man@cheatcc.com

Quick street test...

Accelerate to about 30 mph. Do not use the foot brake. Pull the e-brake as tight as you can. Guage the stopping distance.

Now do the same thing NOT using the e-brake, but only with the foot brake. Guage the stopping distance.

Is there a significant difference? I'd wager there is, Chris.

Frank

OK, call me silly, or just mentally lazy, BUT what, exactly, does that llittle test tell the OP how to solve his dilemma?

I think what he is inferring, is that the e-brake test, which only uses the rears, will or rather should, take longer to stop the car.

That, of course, is providing the front brakes are doing something:nervous::nervous::nervous:

Where you go from there though:ermm:

Since cavalier_man said it seemed like only his rears were working, my suggestion was to actually see if the rears were the only system that worked. Nothing more, nothing less.

Frank

I have not yet tested the car yet, i am going to put it back together sunday May 11, If the rears are the only brakes that are working, what would be the problem, you think may be the master cylinder..

Ok, when i do the test i'll let you guys know. Thanks

Any other ideas i can do to my car.

Did you bleed the brake system correctly? Are the front brake calipers on the correct side? I ONCE put the calipers on the wrong side. They are side specific. Make sure the bleeding nipple is on the top.

I did bleed them the right way i think. there is no air in the system, i just push the pedal down hard and i slow down, i dont stop.

Jack up the front of the car and put it on jack stands. Make sure everything is stable - SAFETY FIRST! Rotate a wheel by hand and verify that it spins freely. Then have your helper step on the brake pedal. Does the wheel stop spinning? With the brakes applied can you spin the wheel? You may want to remove the wheels and observe the operation of the calipers while your helper steps on the brake pedal to make sure everything is moving the way it should and not binding up.

Put the wheels back on & put the front of the car back on the ground. Then jack up the rear of the car and put it on stands. Rotate a wheel by hand and verify that it spins freely. Then have your helper step on the brake pedal. Does the wheel stop spinning? With the brakes applied can you spin the wheel? You may want to remove the wheels & brake drums and verify everything is working properly when the brakes are applied.

If you can spin any of the wheels with the brakes applied you will need to dig a little deeper to find the problem. I won't say it's not the master cylinder, but it doesn't seem likely. I'm wondering about the proportioning valve that distributes the brake fluid to the front wheels. Also the brake lines for the front. When bleeding the brakes did you get a steady flow of brake fluid at each caliper & wheel cylinder? No pinched lines or anything? A firm pedal seems to indicate that you have bled all the air out of the system, so I'm guessing that something is binding up somewhere...

Hope this helps!

You didn't say what year the Z is . The early 240 used a master cylinder that had the pistons reversed from what the later cars have . It is possible that the rear system is getting pressure and volume meant for the front Disk brakes which require more volume. This has happened before . I drive a '73 and mine were repositioned by a previous owner. Gary