Turned on headlights and it died???

[IDigMy280]

77 280Z

While letting her warm up tonight, I turned on the headlights and it died. It didn't stumble then die, it died as though I had turned off the switch.

Now the headlights will not come on and the ignition is dead. when I turn the key to "on" no beep, no fuel guage, no ignition? Engine turns over fine.

I checked the fuses in the fuse box on the passenger side of the car. the fusible links look good too, unless you can't visably see the problem with them. (Not even sure what they control yet. Only had this car two weeks)

Is there another fuse block somewhere on this car? It has to be a fuse that controls the ignition and headlights? the parking lights still work fine but the headlights are out??? What the hell?

Had a nice ride home in a tow truck though..:mad:

Thanks!

[Zs-ondabrain]

Put an ohms meter on the fusable links. They can blow without any change in apearance. Sounds like you popped a main link or fuse. Also keep an eye on your engine harness grounds and other major connections that deal with battery and alternator power, as well as the grounds.

Dave.

[beandip]

If you have a bad connection to the Battery and adding additional load could cause the problem you describe. Check the battery cables and connections and clean them. You didn't say but is the Battery dead or discharged. Bad connections and or a Alternator that is going bad and not putting out enough and with the engine at idle for a long time could draw down a low battery even farther. As was stated the fusible link can look good when in fact it is blown. The link is a short wire of about 5'' with a connector on each end , coming from the starter to the harness across from it. Gary

[IDigMy280]

OK, I checked all the fusible links for continuity and they are OK. All fuses in the fuse block are OK as well. Now when I turn the key to ignition, I get nothing, not even the volt meter which worked last night. The radio and Acc. position is dead too but the damn engine will still turn over?

I'm usually pretty good with this stuff but I'm stumped..? Ignition switch possibly? The FSM has testing procedures for the switch, should I try that???

[ncolz]

Have you checked the voltage on your battery? Check both on the battery posts as well as the cables coming off. I had a battery cable that gave a bad connection at the post. How old are you battery cables? Maybe check continuity on each of them too.

Good luck!

Glen

[IDigMy280]

Battery and cables are new and clean. I tested my multi swith and ignition switch for continuity. Both OK.

Checking out the ignition relay I find that it is getting 12 volts but it's negative polarity...Is that right?

Also, I check the fusible link and have continuity, I take it off and check the two posts that it was connected to and I have 12 volts. I put the link back on and check it and have no volts at all? Even when I check it at the male side and not on the link connectors?

This is bizarre. I don't know what else to check..???

[ALConfederate]

Also, I check the fusible link and have continuity, I take it off and check the two posts that it was connected to and I have 12 volts. I put the link back on and check it and have no volts at all? Even when I check it at the male side and not on the link connectors?

That means the links are good. Electricity always follows the easiest path to ground, and in the case of the links that path is easier through the links than through your meter.

[IDigMy280]

I was told that when the ignition switch is turned to the on position I should get power to my fuse block at all terminals except the headlights.

That is not happening. The ignition relay seems to be operating properly. I took it apart and check continuity when the contacts close and it's good.

At the end of my rope on what to check next????

Open to any ideas at this point...

[EScanlon]

That means the links are good. Electricity always follows the easiest path to ground, and in the case of the links that path is easier through the links than through your meter.

A better explanation is that what he's measuring there is Voltage DROP through the fusible link, which should be 0 (zero) for purposes of discussion.

Your explanation is correct, but it bears explanation. If he did in fact measure a voltage at the two end points of the fusible link it would indicate that there is some resistance, whether small (corrosion or by design) or infinite (broken wire). A small resistance would show a very low voltage and a high resistance would show a large voltage.

FWIW

E

[EScanlon]

I was told that when the ignition switch is turned to the on position I should get power to my fuse block at all terminals except the headlights.

That is not happening. The ignition relay seems to be operating properly. I took it apart and check continuity when the contacts close and it's good.

At the end of my rope on what to check next????

Open to any ideas at this point...

Actually your headlights are powered all the time, your Combination Switch allows them to ground while the Dimmer Switch selects which element gets the ground. Since the are powered all the time is why the Ignition Switch setting doesn't matter. In fact, that's why you hear of people leaving their lights on and killing their battery.

The ignition relay is an item specific to the later 280's, so maybe we can get Stephen in to comment.

There are a couple of items which lead to much confusion. So, let's eliminate the confusion by simplifying what you're checking for.

Battery Voltage: It doesn't matter if you just bought it, if it isn't fully charged then many problems arise just because that's the nature of things. Charge it overnight on a trickle charger. While you're at it, remove the connections to it, wire brush them clean, both the posts and the clamps and re-tighten them. Check your grounds from the battery to body, wire brush where they connect.

You mention that your ignition is dead, yet you then mention that it will turn over.... hmmm, how's that again? If the ignition switch is dead, it wouldn't actuate the starter, or if it did, then you may have a wire or connection bad. DO the Ignition Switch test by the FSM procedure.

Remove and clean the ends of the fuses AND their connecting clamps and check the fuses OUTSIDE of the fuse box before replacing. Don't do a visual check, and don't do a continuity check while in the holder.

Stop disassembling and "fixing" all sorts of items until you can address it, it's a much higher probability that you'll introduce and ADD problems than magically stumble on the source of your current problem. Only by systematic and patient effort will you find and fix the problem.

HTH

E

[sblake01]

The ignition relay is an item specific to the later 280's, so maybe we can get Stephen in to comment.

I've been watching, but, so far, I've nothing to add. On a 280Z, the headlights would still work even if the ignition relay was bad.

[IDigMy280]

Actually your headlights are powered all the time, your Combination Switch allows them to ground while the Dimmer Switch selects which element gets the ground. Since the are powered all the time is why the Ignition Switch setting doesn't matter. In fact, that's why you hear of people leaving their lights on and killing their battery.

The ignition relay is an item specific to the later 280's, so maybe we can get Stephen in to comment.

There are a couple of items which lead to much confusion. So, let's eliminate the confusion by simplifying what you're checking for.

Battery Voltage: It doesn't matter if you just bought it, if it isn't fully charged then many problems arise just because that's the nature of things. Charge it overnight on a trickle charger. While you're at it, remove the connections to it, wire brush them clean, both the posts and the clamps and re-tighten them. Check your grounds from the battery to body, wire brush where they connect.

You mention that your ignition is dead, yet you then mention that it will turn over.... hmmm, how's that again? If the ignition switch is dead, it wouldn't actuate the starter, or if it did, then you may have a wire or connection bad. DO the Ignition Switch test by the FSM procedure.

Remove and clean the ends of the fuses AND their connecting clamps and check the fuses OUTSIDE of the fuse box before replacing. Don't do a visual check, and don't do a continuity check while in the holder.

Stop disassembling and "fixing" all sorts of items until you can address it, it's a much higher probability that you'll introduce and ADD problems than magically stumble on the source of your current problem. Only by systematic and patient effort will you find and fix the problem.

HTH

E

I appreciate your response but let's look back on my previous posts in this thread. The battery connections are great, clean and new. The lead is so shiny I can damn near see my reflection in them.

My ignition is dead, as in I am not getting any spark to start the engine. What leads me to believe there is something amiss, is the fact that when the ignition switch (Which was tested word for word straight from the FSM) is turned to the "on" position, my fuel guage does not work, it does not beep at me like it did the day before yesterday and there is no power to any of my glass fuses. So I am not saying the switch is bad, I'm saying that the ignition is not getting energized properly.

The headlights still do not work either. The running lights work fine with the exception of the front side marker lamps, they are out too.

Let's look back at what caused this...Last night I was letting her warm up and when I flipped on the headlights, it died. Didn't stumble and stall, ity died like someone turned the key off. What are the odds of having a headlight AND this ignition problem occur at teh same time?

I haven't replaced anything yet as I'm not crazy about throwing money at things blindly to try and fix it. I spent almost 6 hours today with my volt meter TESTING things, not replacing them. I took apart the ignition relay to make sure it funtioning properly and tested it for continuity after actuation...Everyhting I disconnected for testing purposes was put back together BEFORE I started another test.

So why do you think the fuel guage is not working when the ignition switch is set to the "on" position?