A better explanation is that what he's measuring there is Voltage DROP through the fusible link, which should be 0 (zero) for purposes of discussion.

Your explanation is correct, but it bears explanation. If he did in fact measure a voltage at the two end points of the fusible link it would indicate that there is some resistance, whether small (corrosion or by design) or infinite (broken wire). A small resistance would show a very low voltage and a high resistance would show a large voltage.

Yeah, true, but why get technical?

Dave M.

There are a couple of us up here in Washington. Where do you live?? If your close enough, one of us might try and make it to you to help you out. A second set of eyes are always beter than one.

It sounds like all the bases have been covered but complicating it is'nt going to make it any easier. Start with the simple things...... Like unplug and reconnect the related connectors. check all the major power wires, they are in constant use and go bad. Even if it comes down to cutting off the bad terminals and butting them together.

REALLY go thru all the ground points, everyone of them, no matter how unrelated they may seem. start testing fom the battery to the ignition, there's something wrong and you will find it if you take baby steps. Electrical systems are some of the most irritating things to deal with in a car. Just thank go it's not a newer car with miles of cables, connectors, computors and everything else.

So once again, where do you live? If you're within say 30 miles, I might be able to make it over there. Ya never know.

Dave.

There are a couple of us up here in Washington. Where do you live?? If your close enough, one of us might try and make it to you to help you out. A second set of eyes are always beter than one.

It sounds like all the bases have been covered but complicating it is'nt going to make it any easier. Start with the simple things...... Like unplug and reconnect the related connectors. check all the major power wires, they are in constant use and go bad. Even if it comes down to cutting off the bad terminals and butting them together.

REALLY go thru all the ground points, everyone of them, no matter how unrelated they may seem. start testing fom the battery to the ignition, there's something wrong and you will find it if you take baby steps. Electrical systems are some of the most irritating things to deal with in a car. Just thank go it's not a newer car with miles of cables, connectors, computors and everything else.

So once again, where do you live? If you're within say 30 miles, I might be able to make it over there. Ya never know.

Dave.

Thanks for the offer Dave. That's really cool. Unfortunately I now live in Moses Lake and moved here from Mukilteo..We were practically neighbors.

I will do everything you have suggested here and a day away from it will help me clear my head. I'm usually pretty good with cars and electrical stuff but this one really has me stumped...I will keep testing. The only good thing I see coming from this is how well I will know this car a year from now...

It is possible your voltage drops so low when you turn on the headlights that the dropping resistors are not getting enough voltage.

Dropping resistors? They don't have anything to with the headlights. Just another eletrical item, in this case part of the EFI system. Nothing is getting power as per post #8. I'm still at a loss though the negative polarity at the ignition relay is kind of scary.

Sorry, I did not read anything but the first post and that I only scanned. If not enough voltage gets to the dropping resistors they will not fire the injectors. The engine will turn but not fire. This is clearly electrical. Ground problem?

I own a 76 280z and the only time I've had problems like the ones you describe had to do with the fusible links and the posts to which they connect. Go to this site http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ and get yourself a FSM. And keep checking back 'cuz what is not available right now may be in an hour or so. You definitely have an electrical issue. I hope this can help you and good luck. Dan

One more thing, just because your battery posts an connectors are clean does not mean the battery is charged. Upon re-reading your posts I remembered the same thing happening. I turned on the headlights and the car died. It died instantly because the running systems had already drained the battery past the the point of being able to support another running system, especially the headlights. Start there and work your way through. You will find the problem. Again, good luck, Dan

Well, after testing every damn thing in the FSM, I finally had to just start tracing wires. I found that where the fusible link wires all go together into one in that mass of wiring on the passenger side of the car, there were some badly corroded wires and when I hit the lights, it was just too much for them and they broke apart. Hooked 'em all back together, cleaned it real good, re-wrapped all the wires and viola...Fired right up!

Thanks for all of your help...Amazing how corroded those wires can get even inside of their insulation...

Like I said and so did people in posts 2 / 3 / 10 / and 14, Check your connections.

Glad you found it.

Dave.