Initial timing question

[Force Fed]

What would be a good baseline setting for a F54 block w/ an N47 head?

[Carl Beck]

What intake set-up and what distributor are you using?

[Force Fed]

Oh sorry, forgot that. Stock (I assume) SU carbs, intakes, and points distributor.

[Maddos]

Manual recommends 8 deg BTDC.

[Carl Beck]

Points Distributor - will most likely have the 240-Z advance curve.. and vacuum advance

So 14 to 16 degrees BTDC will make it a little easier to start... however with today's gasoline - you might have to back it back off if you get ping.

[Clifton]

Initial timing is more important for emissions. If you are looking for performance I would check total timing. Unplug the vac advance and get all the mechanical in, atleast 3000 rpms and check it. I wouldn't run less than 36-38*. If it knocks at all pull a few degrees out. You will need an adjustable light as there aren't timing marks past 30*.

[Force Fed]

Points Distributor - will most likely have the 240-Z advance curve.. and vacuum advance

So 14 to 16 degrees BTDC will make it a little easier to start... however with today's gasoline - you might have to back it back off if you get ping.

Yeah it's the original '72 dizzy I think. Basically, the car has had a 2.8 longblock dropped in it and all the 240 stuff bolted back on it. So yeah, I don't think I'm going to find a happy setting w/ the current parts. I'm just trying to get it running decent, set timing, adjust the carbs, etc etc. Basically just get it to start up and drive everyday w/ no tuning problems. I have it pretty decent now, but it sounds like it breaks up on top (about 4500-5k) a little. Also, the engine has no timing tab that I can see, and the only mark on the balancer is pointing down towards the passenger side when at TDC. So I'm kinda having to set it by ear. From the amount I turned the dizzy to make it rev good and not spit back through the carbs, it's probably at about 15* now.

[Carl Beck]

14 BTDC should be a good point at which to start. On all the dyno runs I've seen a more of less stock L6 will lose HP with total timing much above 34 degrees (on todays "high octane gas 93). You can pull the distributor and take it to a good automotive ignition shop and have them check the timing curve. You always want to do this when you swap in a distributor from another application.

Make sure your vacuum advance is working properly and that the distributor shaft is running true. (no bearing wobble etc).

You want a timing curve that starts to ramp up around 1500 RPM and has the total advance all in by 3500 RPM. That will get you in the ball park with the S.U.'s.

You can go to the junk yard (in some area's) and get a timing pointer off another L6, or you can make your own out of thin sheet aluminum. Then put the engine at TDC and set your pointer to the mark on the crank pulley.

To drive every day - I'd put either an electronic distributor in, or replace the points with an electronic pickup. In todays world mechanical points are a PIA. If it's breaking up at 4500 to 5000 RPM you may be running a little lean... (if everything is fine as far as the ignition system goes). When you get to about 4000RPM start pulling the choke in - to richen the mixture. If it runs better you'll have an idea if it's carb's or ignition.

Keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs - pull a couple and check them after a clean run (not after stop and go driving).

good luck,

Carl

[Force Fed]

Yeah I started to say the breaking up might be fueling issues, one of the needles is a little bent up from a previous owner sticking a screwdriver or something in there I PM'd Bruce about what needles I might need. I'm just trying to get the timing in the ballpark, cause I think that's needed to properly adjust the carbs.

Is the crank pulley mark supposed to point downwards?