Will a 280zx AFM fit on a 280z car?

[studioti]

Title really says it all, but here are more specifics.

Found an AFM on ebay for cheap, but its for a non-turbo 1982 280zx. From what little i've gathered they are very similar parts to my 280z (1977 to be specific). Just wondering if i can buy this unit and use it in my car, which has a broken one.

Thanks for any info

[sblake01]

Since your 77 has fuel pump contacts in the AFM, you'd have to jumper those two wires in your AFM connector to make a 82 AFM work in your car. I could have sworn that I answered this question last week,

[ALConfederate]

You did. I remember it quite well.

Studioti, you get that one off E-bay? What was it going for?

[studioti]

thanks for the info. sorry about repeated threads. i tried searching, but sometimes the search engine doesn't pull up everything.

Ebay has one used for $10 right now, but i'm sure the bidding will go sky rocket once it gets close to the end time.

[sblake01]

The only one I see on eBay right now is for a turbo and that wont work for you. What is the one you refer to listed under?

[ALConfederate]

I've got one off a '77. PM me with your best offer.

[studioti]

To anyone whom can answer,

I have a 77 280z that das a broken AFM. I was able to track one down on Ebay in great condition for pretty cheap. Once it was shipped to me I installed it immediately, but with poor results. The car runs even worse than with the failing AFM. The car is running super super rich and barely wants to idle.

So here's where we can get technical. The serial/product code on the AFM that was originally on my car had this designation:

A31-605 000

But the item i purchased has a serial/product code of:

A31-604 000

I was hoping that they were close enough, but i guess not. I noticed on Motorsport Auto that if you buy from them they have a whole long list of different serial/codes to choose from. So i am guess that it really is year specific.

I've done some searches on the forums and found out that 78 and later have AFMs that need some wires to be "jumped" but no threads specifically identify which exact serial/code can work with what year. Any info on this detailed subject would be much appreciated.

Thanks

[sblake01]

Take a look at the connector on the bottom of the AFM itself. Does is have pins all the way across ore does it appear to be 'missing' the last two? If it's missing the last two, you have to jumper the two wires on the plug that correspond with with where those two pins would be on the 75-77 AFM.

[studioti]

Thanks.

Just checked the plugs on the bottom, and 'yes' they do run all the way across. So i guess the AFM is not the culprit. I'm running out of things that could be the "running rich/rough idle" problem. So i guess i'll take it in to a professional Datsun mechanic and have them figure it out.

So far i've replaced spark plugs, new injectors, fuel filter and AFM.

I'll admit, i'm not a mechanic, but i learn quick and read a lot of threads.

Thanks everyone for all your help.

[sblake01]

Here's a couple of scans that show the difference:

[studioti]

slbake01

thanks, i double checked and the new and current AFM that i have both have 7 pins. There are still a few more threads out there that i can search.

But here's a little info to put a twist on things. When i bought the car a few weeks ago, the car looked to run really smooth and strong. But after more than 20min of driving, i noticed that the car slowly started to get sluggish and darker smoke became visible from the exhaust in between shifts.

At first i really didnt think too much into it, but then while changing the oil, i noticed a wire connector that was not plugged in. Turns out the water temp sensor was not plugged in the whole time. So i decided to plug it in and guess what? the car idled like crap and under throttle or acceleration, the car putters, like it was choking. then i herd a type of "pop" from the front AFM area. Backfire?

So then i read posts and threads. Is it safe to say that by not having the water temp sensor plugged in you get an overly rich mixture when the car is warmed up.

My question, is...

What advantage does someone have by unplugging the water temp sensor?

Thanks

[sblake01]

No advantage that I know of. Sounds like your wts is no good. The wts is supposed to decrease in resistance as the engine warms up thereby leaning the fuel mixture and changing the fuel injection pulse. It won't run right wthout it plugged in and it won't run right if it's plugged in but bad.