Hi all,

I know that this has been covered here, but there are too many conflicting answers. Thanks in advance for your patience!

First of all - Is there a "best thread" out there that details a full 280ZX L28/5 speed swap into an early (2/'71) 240? If so, I could use it as a resource rather than ask a bunch of questions going forward. I am picking up the donor ZX this weekend and will be swapping the '83 drivetrain into the 240 to get it running. If all goes well, I will have it on the road by the end of June!

I will be running my SU's with the L28.

Here are my questions about the 5 speed swap...

1 - Will I need to cut the shifter area on my 2/'71 240 to accomodate the 5 speed? Some threads have said "Yes - the '70/'71 240's have to be cut". Others have said that this is not an issue if you use the 4 speed shifter.

2 - If I do cut the floor, will the lower shift boot still work effectively?

3 - Will I need to make any slave cylinder changes? I will most likely replace the cylinder anyway (low $), but want to make sure I get the correct one.

Information on any other "quirks" that I might run into would be appreciated.

Thanks again!

Tim

You are correct in the fact that you will need to trim the front of the shifter through hole in the tranny tunnel.....without triming, the shifter will hit the front edge of the opening when attempting 5th gear. At least that was my experience on my 3/70 240. Regarding the inner boot, I suppose one could use the OEM inner boot if you added the same amount of material you removed from the front of the opening to the rear of the opening...essentially maintaining the same size opening. I choose to fab up my own inner boot assembly......don't even ask what I did, as it is a bit anal and likely overkill.

Tom

You are correct in the fact that you will need to trim the front of the shifter through hole in the tranny tunnel.....without triming, the shifter will hit the front edge of the opening when attempting 5th gear. At least that was my experience on my 3/70 240. Regarding the inner boot, I suppose one could use the OEM inner boot if you added the same amount of material you removed from the front of the opening to the rear of the opening...essentially maintaining the same size opening. I choose to fab up my own inner boot assembly......don't even ask what I did, as it is a bit anal and likely overkill.

Tom

Thanks Tom! I won't ask...

However, I will ask this: Did the shifter impact the center console after the trimming was done? If so, is there anythign that needs to be done to the console?

Thanks again!

Tim

First of all - Is there a "best thread" out there that details a full 280ZX L28/5 speed swap into an early (2/'71) 240?

I don't think so, Tim. (Man, I sound like Al on Tool Time. )

If you are swapping from a 4 speed to a 5 speed, it is very straightforward, other than the issues you ask below. (Swapping from an automatic is a somewhat different story.)

1 - Will I need to cut the shifter area on my 2/'71 240 to accomodate the 5 speed? Some threads have said "Yes - the '70/'71 240's have to be cut". Others have said that this is not an issue if you use the 4 speed shifter.

You either need to cut the floor, or have a custom shift lever fabricated. The current four speed lever won't fit at all, and no later lever (4 or 5 speed) will work without floor cutting.

2 - If I do cut the floor, will the lower shift boot still work effectively?

I'd say that's a firm maybe. The lower boot might be able to accommodate a slightly larger hole, if it was cut as minimally as possible. But you may have to get creative with a different boot.

3 - Will I need to make any slave cylinder changes? I will most likely replace the cylinder anyway (low $), but want to make sure I get the correct one.

Optional. Your slave cylinder needs to match the clutch fork that you use. It is my understanding that either the early style (adjustable slave and fork w/hole) or the later style (self-adjusting slave and fork w/o hole) can be used as long as the combo is matched. Take your pick.

Other thoughts - if you are using your existing clutch, use your existing release bearing collar, not the collar that may come with the 5 speed. You will also nee to change the speedo gear in the 5 speed to match your axle ratio. You should be able to use the gear out of your current 4 speed for that.

If you searched you may have come across this thread which links to others and also has explanations & pics of Jon & Marty's shifters, both of which solved the problem. I managed to fit my inner boot, but I didn't as yet test fit the console. I didn't have to trim very much and don't foresee any problems. The shifter shape is key.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24923&highlight=shifter+truck

If you searched you may have come across this thread which links to others and also has explanations & pics of Jon & Marty's shifters, both of which solved the problem. I managed to fit my inner boot, but I didn't as yet test fit the console. I didn't have to trim very much and don't foresee any problems. The shifter shape is key.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24923&highlight=shifter+truck

My car was built 1/71.

My modified shifter ended up not working after all. It moved the problem from contacting at the front to contacting at the rear. I just bit the bullet and trimmed the tunnel and the console. Hated doing it at the time, but once it was done and working I was glad I did it.

For the inner boot, get the mounting plate and rubber boot from a Series II car. You can use the mounting plate as a template for how much of the tunnel to trim.

You should use the throw out bearing, collar and fork that are correct for the ZX tranny. The auto adjusting slave is much more convenient to use.

Good luck!

Marty

Excellent! Thanks for the info guys! A good amount of stuff to think about!

It looks like (at a minimum), I should find later (78-79) shift lever and do the "S Bend" thing and maybe and trim things up a little as needed. The truck shifter route looks interesting, but I always question the strength of these once they are cut and welded.

For clarification, I think that I am just going to do the full drivetrain swap into the 240 - L28 long block, 5 speed and R200 (unless I can get ahold of the 4:11 R180 setup that may be available locally). If I can pull this off easily enough, that will take care of the speedo gear issues.

I will need to check it, but from what I could find, the '83ZX non-turbo 5 speed cars had the 3:90's. I hope that is the case! I will need to get the parts to do the R200 swap (280 mustache bar, drive shaft, etc).

WooHoo! One step at a time!

Tim

My car was built 1/71.

My modified shifter ended up not working after all. It moved the problem from contacting at the front to contacting at the rear. I just bit the bullet and trimmed the tunnel and the console. Hated doing it at the time, but once it was done and working I was glad I did it.

For the inner boot, get the mounting plate and rubber boot from a Series II car. You can use the mounting plate as a template for how much of the tunnel to trim.

You should use the throw out bearing, collar and fork that are correct for the ZX tranny. The auto adjusting slave is much more convenient to use.

Good luck!

Marty

Thanks Marty! I will have to get the donor car here (this weekend) and see exactly where I am at. I will be installing a new clutch kit and cleaning/painting everything up, so I can make sure that everything is good to go at that time.

As long as I don't have to hack up my console, I am OK in doing a little bit of trimming. It all sounds pretty straight forward by using the Series II part. I am one of those "gotta see it" kinds of people. Then it all starts to come together!

This forum ROCKS!!!

Thanks again!

Tim

Excellent! Thanks for the info guys! A good amount of stuff to think about!

It looks like (at a minimum), I should find later (78-79) shift lever and do the "S Bend" thing and maybe and trim things up a little as needed. The truck shifter route looks interesting, but I always question the strength of these once they are cut and welded.

For clarification, I think that I am just going to do the full drivetrain swap into the 240 - L28 long block, 5 speed and R200 (unless I can get ahold of the 4:11 R180 setup that may be available locally). If I can pull this off easily enough, that will take care of the speedo gear issues.

I will need to check it, but from what I could find, the '83ZX non-turbo 5 speed cars had the 3:90's. I hope that is the case! I will need to get the parts to do the R200 swap (280 mustache bar, drive shaft, etc).

WooHoo! One step at a time!

Tim

If you can get the R180 4.11, do it! IT is lighter and you won't have to monkey around with more conversion parts. I just put one in and it took me almost a year to find one. IT makes the car really quick.

Marty

If you can get the R180 4.11, do it! IT is lighter and you won't have to monkey around with more conversion parts. I just put one in and it took me almost a year to find one. IT makes the car really quick.

Marty

I'm trying... We'll see if he is willing to let it go... :classic:

Was the number I sent out yesterday the same that I sent earlier?

On the 1970-1971 Z's, you'll find that the 1972-1973 consoles will work with the later 5-speeds so that you don't have to modify your early consoles.