I know I put this up before but I couldn't find it by searching, so here it is again.

I'm assuming that the dimensions shown in the chart works for the spring load type of needle valves I have and is not specific to the solid type (if Datsun ever used those) ????

use a 1/2'' drill for a spacer.

.5" equals 12.70 mm, which isn't used according to the chart ???

I think I need use 12mm ® and 16mm (F).

Well actually a bit more than that - the measurement is taken across a small lip, which would raise the gauge a mm or so... If you put a bolt head between the top and the float it won't be sitting on the lip...

Make a gauge out of aluminum stock - it will be easier to hold and more accurate...

FWIW,

Carl B.

Well actually a bit more than that - the measurement is taken across a small lip, which would raise the gauge a mm or so... If you put a bolt head between the top and the float it won't be sitting on the lip...

Make a gauge out of aluminum stock - it will be easier to hold and more accurate...

FWIW,

Carl B.

hmmm, looks like the dimension(s) and gauge take the cap lip into account. Thanks.

I'm assuming that the dimensions shown in the chart works for the spring load type of needle valves I have and is not specific to the solid type (if Datsun ever used those) ????

I'm assuming your assumption is correct. This is not a spec that would be subject to change without notice.

Carl - By measuring the way shown in the illustration in the TSB, wouldn't you think any 1mm lip would have been taken into account before specifying a measurement? Probably not critical because they allow 1mm of leeway in the spec parimeters and that would bring you to the smaller value if you started with the larger number. I do not see any 1mm lip on the set I'm looking at. But then again there are not any identification numbers on the float bowls of these either.

Edit - 240Z240Z240Z - Looks like you figured that out. I didn't see your last post before this post.

Be thankful you don't have Webers. They need to be adjusted for both up and down.

Be thankful you don't have Webers. They need to be adjusted for both up and down.

I don't have webbers, but I do have these....

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1192239652059523625rsnBCY

I know I put this up before but I couldn't find it by searching, so here it is again.

You have no idea how much searching I've done to find this. Thanks.

Soon to be running well...........

I'm resurrecting an older thread here (and something that has been discussed)...

I note above in TS73-10 (dated 2/9/73) posted by Geezer that it shows different float heights for the '72 model year (~ 16mm front & ~ 12mm rear) yet the FSM indicates 14-15mm in figure EF-46.

Which is correct? Why the different heights? If it has to do with the emissions system, and I have it disabled, should I stick with 14mm?

Gary, from what I can see there were several changes made in the FSM during the 1972 model year. There were enough changes that it was neccesary to publish a second manual to replace the earlier one that was issued for 1972. There were changes made in the carburetor section, the exhaust emission control system, as well as the engine electrical section. The technical bulletins were issued to the service & parts departments as changes were made and then entered in the new replacement manual which is meant to replace the earlier manual. Unfortunately, I don't have either of these manuals but I do have the TSB's that noted the changes. What is the publication date of your FSM? The replacement FSM was issued after July 3, 1972, and the last TSB relating to float adjustments for the 1972 models year was issued Feb 9, 1973. That is the one I would refer to, unless someone has more recent, relevent information.

Edited July 3, 201014 yr by geezer

Ron,

The manual that I have is the Service Manual (red cover) that is available for download. While the model year is noted, there is no revision date or number.

I guess I'll add a float adjustment to my winter maintenance. The different values would explain why my mixture setting are different by more then a full turn.

Here is what worked for me.

I made a gauge out of a piecs of aluminum. Then I flipped over the Carburetor and stated bending the float arm. Darn if those needle valves had a little spring in them. I could not get the level right. So I placed a piece of plywood in my bench vice and bolted the carb to it in a horizontal position, same as it would be in my Z. Now I figured that Fuel is a fluid and so is air. I took a length of fuel line and blew into it as I adjusted the lever arm. When the air flow stopped the needle was closed. Sure enough I got the gauge to where the float was where it was supposed to be. Bolted them up to my manifold and have enjoyed them ever since.

As usual thanks Bruce for the Z therapy video and the help you have given me along the way.