I've come to the conclusion that my Z is slowly dieing and welding isn't going to save it, plus i don't have the money or skill to REALLY do a restore on it. So im just going to drive it till it falls apart, im going to search for an arizona/nevada/florida etc. Z when I have money saved and just use what I've learned from this forum and my current Z to make it respectable.

I'll post pics of my rust but its really bad i think beyond saving (the previous owner did a good job of hiding it) and i've seen stuff on other cars while searching. I really like the car but the rust is out of control but at least now I know where to look whenever I get ready for a replacement. I wouldn't mind a 510 either but do those have the same rust issues?

Yep, you'll have to be weary of rust for a 510 as well.

How out of control is the rust on your Z? I would say all hope can't be lost unless the chasis or undercarriage are affected. Guys?

Enter soapbox mode: -

"It is only metal and metal can be repaired."

Only YOU can decide whether YOU want to do it/get it done and keep the car.

Even chassis rails are just folded sections of sheet.

Is it an economical proposition or should you cut your losses:rolleyes:

Post some pics. and open it up for discussion:ermm:

Both of the under floor chassis rails were replaced on this body, as well as sections of the floor pan.

As mentioned a PL510 is also ~36 years old minimum so Terry the Tinworm has had plenty of time to get established:(

:stupid: Now sit back and think young grasshopper. Is it worth the time and effort to rebuild? I did it to my car and it took some time to do (1 1/2 years to do). But it was worth it and I am doing it again on another. These cars are getting pretty rare and fewer, every day. Yes they didn't come with any rust proofing on them. But with the modern paint we have now, you can save it. But the best way to do it is for you to find a Community College and see if they have a Auto Body course you can take. You will have to learn how to do auto body work and some welding. But it isn't that hard and it will reward you in the end. You can even do it at home in your free time. But you have to do the final decision. So Good Luck on your choice, Rich.:tapemouth ( My wife thinks I am crazy to do it).

And some schools will let you bring your own car in to work on...

My Z's not in the world's best shape, either. I'm finding spots where Bondo was just slathered on, one-half to three-quarters of an inch deep in places, over improperly-prepared metal, with the predictable results. I've got a hole in a floor pan. All this is going to take time and money to fix. (My Z is one of those where the For Sale ad reads, "just needs a little TLC", where TLC stands for "tons of loot and cash".)

But I'm finding the more work I do to her, the less I want to sell, despite what I'm finding. This car's going to be a learning experience for me, and at the end it will be something I can enjoy. At the end of the day, isn't that what it should be about?

TLC stands for "tons of loot and cash"

Did you coin that one? Love it and I'll be borrowing that one.

Enter soapbox mode: -

"It is only metal and metal can be repaired."

Only YOU can decide whether YOU want to do it/get it done and keep the car.

Even chassis rails are just folded sections of sheet.

Is it an economical proposition or should you cut your losses:rolleyes:

Post some pics. and open it up for discussion:ermm:

Both of the under floor chassis rails were replaced on this body, as well as sections of the floor pan.

As mentioned a PL510 is also ~36 years old minimum so Terry the Tinworm has had plenty of time to get established:(

Great, thanks for addressing the chasis issue. That's good to know.

If you have the money.................

Im going to try and get into some welding classes and auto body stuff this summer and fall semester but I don't know if its a losing battle, I just figure I'd use the one now to learn the inner workings of the car and then do a restore on a LESS rusty Z. I guess i'd consider this my practice car although there is alot of the car that isn't rusted. But this is the damage. Excuse the dust/dirt its been raining and the car was last driven through a muddy road before the brakes went out on me.

This is the main rust area, and when I took a flashlight to a mirror in this I see rust all inside the door in patches,

The floor is decent and i can't see through it but the frame rails likely need to be replaced and i know the battery tray is an issue, i didn't post a pic but it looks like everyone that had tray rust when i searched that issue. I just don't know if I can save the car or just make it a daily driver/ parts car/ weld training vehicle. I did a search and found out about the Tabco body metal iirc but is that even going to work with a hole like that?

I've seen worse. Might as well save this one if you can. I've been "practicing" on my car for years with all the work I've put into it. I would hate to see all my energy transplanted into another project. Just seems like a waste. Know what I mean?

It's your car, but it's not a lost cause. Good luck.

It is all repairable, it is just that it will take time and effort to dissect the panels and weld in fresh metal.

That area by the radius rod is notorious for doing that.

Nissan welded in a doubler plate in the wheel well and the moisture collects behind it.

Rear sill patches are available.

Rust inside a door may mean a replacement door, but it might also be just surface rust.

You will need to remove the door trim and have a good look see to determine the extent of the damage.

I use a pointed scriber to test the integrity of suspicious areas.

Door frames are easily repaired, not so with the skin.

Thin sheet, due to corrosion, is a beach to weld to, you have to cut back to decent metal to do the repair which of course makes the hole bigger:disappoin.

One of the biggest problems is where you live. That car has undoubtedly seen many miles of salt-brine spring slush and winter ice-slush. Can it be saved? Yes, but only by addressing each and every area patiently and completely.

Is there a cheaper way? Possibly by starting over with a car from out the south-west. California, Arizona and New Mexico cars are not normally exposed to the salt-brine baths of the Rust Belt (there's a reason for that moniker). But cheaper in what respect? Cheaper as far as the metal replacement and work you'll do. However, expect to spend a chunk on any and all vinyl, plastic and rubber pieces on the car anywhere. Where the dry climate is great for metal, it destroys soft pieces.

Unfortunately in the East half of the USA you can expect to pay an extreme premium for a Z in good condition and a trouble free one is likely to be out of most young people's budget....heck, it's out of most ANY body's budget.

FWIW

E